TEa20 questions from newbie in Oz (Mk II)

Again, thank you for your help :)

A warning for what follows - it could be very disturbing and upsetting for some viewers.

I had an accident today on my beloved 50 year + Fergie which has upset me greatly. A brief description and then some questions to help me repair and avoid it in future . . .

My brakes are useless, always have been (since I bought Fergie 2 years ago) but as I only slash grass in a flat field it wasn't a big deal. It also takes a while - 2 seconds or so - to disengage the clutch after pushing it in, so it trundles along in gear for a few metres before stopping (~3 with slasher down and ~8 with slasher up). I decided in a Christmas season moment of generosity to mow my neighbours (~15 degree) sloping block for them, and discovered a new issue - when turning uphill the weight goes onto the back tyres so much that the front tyres skim the grass and have no traction. Put those three things together and I hit a tree whilst trying to turn uphill . . . there was a couple of agonising seconds whilst I had the clutch in but was still moving forward with the slasher up and powerless to stop Fergie trying to climb a tree, until she had the clutch dis-engage and backed off. Unfortunately I have damaged the radiator and fan shroud, such that the shroud crumple prevents the fan turning, and there is a (very small) leak :(

1) I tried belting the shroud back into rough shape in-situ to allow the fan to turn again, but cannot get to it properly (tried using dowel lengths and bashing end with hammer) and only noticed the small leak after trying that, maybe I created the leak doing my bash bash bash thing?
I am intending to remove radiator and shroud (shroud screws to radiator), then remove shroud, then belt the metal shroud back into circular shape with a hammer. Does that sound OK? Is there an easier way?

2) There is large clearance above the fan, the bottom is scraping the shroud, is it possible to drop the whole shroud down somhow (in-situ)? Or am I better just removing radiator and shroud as per above anyway?

3) To drive Fergie home will take about 2 minutes. To prevent further damage I was going to remove fan belt first. Do you think I can run Fergie for 2 minutes without overheating her (given, I assume, the water pump won't be running with no fan belt) and doing more damage?

4) Or is there a way to disconnect fan so the belt can stay in place (driving the water pump) for the short drive home, all without removing radiator?

5) A long time ago you guys helped me replace some wheel studs, and whilst there I roughed up the right hand brake lining, which was glazed smooth. I think there is a slight oil leak which glazes them and renders them useless, and I think that leak is from the "wheel seals" (I honestly have no idea of what I am talking about!) which I was quoted $700 per wheel to replace utilising an on-site mechanic. As I am now familiar and somewhat capable of removing the rear tractor wheel(s) and brake drum, what else is involved with replacing the "wheel seals" (and presumably replacing the oil in there too) and then the brake pads, so I can have brakes again?

6) Why does the clutch take so long to dis-engage? If I put it in gear and release, the clutch engages instantly and Fergie jolts forward.

7) I am also finding it takes a while to put it in 1st or 2nd gear, it's quite stiff and sticky (3rd or reverse are hardly used but easy to put into those gears) - is that indicative of the same problem as #6? Is it time for a new clutch or gearbox? Both of which sound expensive and hardly worth doing to the old girl, she is 50 after all, but it seems cruel to dump her with possible years of good service left. Is there anything I can do to help 1st/2nd gear finding?

8) Am I just a loser that should stay away from tractors of antiquity and pay professionals (which I can't afford) instead of trying to learn this stuff for myself?

Many thanks for your advice!

If I understand you correctly, it is when you press the clutch pedal down that the tractor is still moving forward for a little while. But long enough to cause damage once in a while.

This tells me the clutch disc is not sliding on the splined shaft freely. It may be rusted, or it may be the grease there is so thick that it will not move. Or that the pedal is not opening the clutch enough to free it.

To fix a stuck clutch disc as stubborn as yours seem to be, you have to split the tractor, and clean the splines on the axle shaft, and take out the clutch disc and clean the splines in the hole there too. If the disc is very worn, you may want to replace it, along with the crankshaft bushing and the clutch relase bearing. This way you will solve the problem and your tractor will not be dangerous anymore that way.

Then you need to fix your brakes, so you can stop too... Stoping and steering is quite important on our vehicles.. :-)

Bill

Again, Thanks for your help and advice.

Bill, yes, I could not understand the recommendations of an ORC either, but just assumed I was ignorant (that part I am quite sure of). However, what you said is what I am experiencing - when I push the clutch in to "disengage" from gear to neutral it takes a couple of seconds. The other way is fine - in other words when I let the clutch out to engage into a gear it is instant engagement. Would those symptoms probably still mean what you describe? Split Fergie in half for heart transplant surgery?

She is 50, I don't know her maintenance history before I got her 2 years ago, could well have a well-worn original clutch in there though.

The long disengagement time never bothered me before, even without brakes, as I have a completely flat & cleared ~3 acre block and I only drag a slasher around to mow - plenty of time to plan a stop and plenty of space to avoid anything and turn.

It was only when I went to turn uphill I discovered the weight transfer to rear wheels removed traction to front wheels and Fergie wouldn't turn any more . . . I must have started my turn 20 metres from the tree I hit, heaps of room normally to turn around, so annoyed with myself at the combination of things bringing me unstuck. I thought turning slowly uphill would be safer than a downhill turn where I could gather speed or something. Anyway lesson learnt.

Maybe sealing rear axle is easier, if I had brakes the clutch thing wouldn't matter so much?

What if you drive the bare tractor around ? Does the same thing happen then too ?

Bill

5. How old is your Fergie ? The first TEA 20 had only outer half shaft seals, and the bearing was lubricated by the oil in the differential. The newer versions had both outer and inner half shaft seals, and the bearing was grease lubricated. In case you have the newer ones, it is a piece of cake to replace the inner seals, you clean out old grease and put new in the bearing and put the entire thing back again.

If you have the older type, you need a special inner seal available from at least Old 20 Parts Company in England. No need to replace the entire bearing if it is not damaged. And the price is in either case considerably lower than $700 per wheel. Maybe more like $50-100 dollars for both wheels included the freight from England to Australia. But, maybe you have the same seal in England too. If it is the new type of seal Bare Co should have it.

Here is the kit from Old 20 Parts Company in England.

SEAL KIT FOR EARLY T20 1/2 SHAFT (PAIR) Description Suitable for Ferguson tractors Price: £25.79 Part Number: 5050001

6. About the late disengagement of the clutch. It could also be some stuff that is on the clutch plate that makes it stick to the flywheel / pressure plate. Just a thought.

It is not to discourage do, but I sincerely think you need to split the tractor between the engine and transmission to solve this problem.
I can not find any other solution.

7. Is it hard to move the gear lever when the engine is stopped too ? Or is it only when the engine is running ?

Bill

I then figured out what TexMac had suggested, and manouvred off the cowling, removed radiator, removed shroud. I have worked out where I think the leak is, about a third way up from bottom at left side. The water kind of pyramids down from there so it looks clear to me the leak is from one of the pipes running through the fins (as opposed to from the reservoir at the bottom or top or something.

The accident has knocked some of the fins out of "alignment" with the side bracket but that doesn't seem like a big deal to my unskilled eye. Is there an easy fix for an old copper radiator? Some additive I can throw in that seals it? Or is it off to a professional radiator guy for repair or part replace?

What is an over-ride clutch and why is getting one of those for the PTO important? Is that what is causing the delay engaging normal clutch I am talking about? Because even if PTO is not engaged and I am just driving along it still takes 2 to 3 seconds when pushing clutch in before Fergie goes into neutral and starts slowing down.

Whilst on the topic of ORC for PTO's is there a way I can increase gear ratio of PTO so the mower blades spin faster? I can understand why some applications like digging holes with auger bits and presumably ploughing would want a lower gear but I use Fergie for slashing grass and faster PTO revs would improve the grass cut I think (more of a mulching, finely chopped grass cut).

I assume you mean a "service manual" TexMac? I have the operators manual already. I see I can purchase it through YT for $71 US which is ~$100 AU so I might try and find a copy locally first.