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Harry Ferguson Tractors Discussion Forum
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harry ferguson 1955

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arnie kirk

02-19-2006 05:56:34




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My family recently inhereted a farm with a 1955 fergy included. the sheet metal is in perfect shape except for moderate oxidation. The engine gauges are in good shape also. I was told it was'nt in running condition. The gas cap is not the right size and the tank has had many year of air exposure. My question is how do I begin my task of bringing this thing back? I also have the implements that I believe came with these tractors.

Thanks Arnie Kirk

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Tom H.

02-20-2006 09:13:15




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
Arnie,

Sound like you got a jem in the rough. Surface rust is not a big problem, some elbow grease and the right abrasive will get that off and you can have a really nice paint job.

As for the rest, please, do what they are saying on this site and take your time and do it right. These old Fregusons can last a long time.
I have a TO30 that had lived outside for quite a few years and neglected for a least 3 of them. It took me very little time to get it running. Some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders before you crank it is my advise. Let it sit overnite and change all of the fluids so you know you have good stuff in there. Put some of the marvel in the oil when you change it also. I would change the oil again and the filter after running for a few hours.

Have fun with it and this site is great for getting help with all of the little problems that come up. Also, let us know how you are doing.

Good luck,
Tom

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phil(va)

02-19-2006 17:18:01




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
Arnie, Jerry has given you a wealth of detailed information to get you started. One thing that almost certainly you will need to do is clean the carburetor. If any fuel at all was left in it, that fuel will have turned to a 'varnish' like substance and will have gummed it up. It may not need any more than cleaning, and you may want to wait on the manuals to do that job, but it is very straightforward. As Jerry said, you can do the things he suggested and see if it starts, and if so, maybe the carb is ok, but 9 times out of 10 in your situation the carb needs to be cleaned to get it running properly or at all. Carb kits which include all the needed gaskets and needle and seat, etc., are in the $25-30 range and available from many sources. You may need a 1/4 drive deep well socket (I believe it's 3/8) to get the main jet out, and that's an important item to clean. I say 1/4 drive because those sockets are thin enough to get in there easily.

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phil(va)

02-19-2006 17:16:56




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
Arnie, Jerry has given you a wealth of detailed information to get you started. One thing that almost certainly you will need to do is clean the carburetor. If any fuel at all was left in it, that fuel will have turned to a 'varnish' like substance and will have gummed it up. It may not need any more than cleaning, and you may want to wait on the manuals to do that job, but it is very straightforward. As Jerry said, you can do the things he suggested and see if it starts, and if so, maybe the carb is ok, but 9 times out of 10 in your situation the carb needs to be cleaned to get it running properly or at all. Carb kits which include all the needed gaskets and needle and seat, etc., are in the $25-30 range and available from many sources. You may need a 1/4 drive deep well socket (I believe it's 3/8) to get the main jet out, and that's an important item to clean. I say 1/4 drive because those sockets are thin enough to get in there easily.

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SandyB@TN

02-19-2006 16:56:06




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
Arnie, Jerry/MT has given you some very good advice. The only thing I would add, at the start, would be to check the fluid level in the differntial/hydraulic case. There is a dip stick just behind your right foot, when you are sitting in the seat. If there is a beige/yellow look to the fluid, it is contaminated with water. This is really bad if you live in a climate where it gets cold enough to freeze. Your hydraulic pump WILL NOT pump icey slush. I have seen a pump that tried. You could not count the pieces it became. If you find this condition, get back to us and someone will tell you how to drain and renew the hydraulic oil. I'll just keep it that simple for now. Good luck.

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Bill Brox

02-22-2006 12:46:29




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to SandyB@TN, 02-19-2006 16:56:06  
Hi, and I would like to add that if the tractor has been sitting for a very long time the water settles and fall to the bottom leaving the oil on the dipstick nice and clear and you think it is ok but it is not.
I will advice you to have something under the transmission and centerhousing and open the plugs a little, so you see what comes out of there. Water and dirt....

But, if you run your tractor first, the oil will be yellow / beige as mentioned.


Bill

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Jerry/MT

02-19-2006 16:31:01




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
I'll offer you my opinions on where you might start. I'm assuming that the tractor has sat for along time and is not running.
First, I would find out what model tractor I have. There should be a serial number plate on the dash just above the steering column. Since you say it is a '55, it is probably a TO-35, but the serial number will tell you the right answer. After you have the serial number, go to the left of this page and in the Research & Info Section, click on Serial Numbers and find out the model number.

Once you have that, buy the appropriate FACTORY shop manual, owners manual, and parts manual. It may seem a bit spendy but the info contained in there is invaluable. It'll indicate what kind of job some of the simple maintenance proceedures are and you can decide whether you are capable of doing them. (Remember, this tractor is not the Space Shuttle or an F-22. They are relatively easy to work on and there is plenty of expertise in this forum with probably 100's of years of cummulative experience.) Read up the sections on the engine and the fuel system first so you can understand how things work. Look up (in the parts manual) the part number of the gas cap and the oil filters and order them. Also get a set of points, a distributor cap, spark plugs (and plug wires if your wires are cracked and sorry looking). Look in the owners manual or the shop manual the type of engine oil you'll need and get the required number of quarts of oil.

Look in the fuel tank and see if there's a bunch of crud in it. If there is visible crud in the tank, put in some gas,remove the fuel valve/sediment bowl and try to wash the crud out. You may have to do this several times. If there's fuel in the tank, drain out the old fuel, clean the fuel filter(s) and the sediment bowl. Put a couple gallons of gas in it. Charge the battery. Check the fluid level in the radiator, the trans/hydraulic system and the engine oil level. Top off if appropriate.
When the battery is fully charged(assuming it takes a charge),open up the fuel valve on the sediment bowl, make sure the tractor is out of gear, step on the clutch to reduce the transmission windage, turn on the key switch and try a start. If you're lucky, it'll start and run. Let it warm up, drive it around and then change the engine oil. Consider changing the coolant if it looks bad or isn't a 50/50 mix. If it doen't start, get back to the forum and we'll help you troubleshoot. If I've neglected anything, someone will post a follow up and let you know.
Welcome to the world of antique tractors.

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gerard

02-19-2006 15:51:22




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
I just love that term "moderate oxidation". Must remember it.



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John (UK)

02-20-2006 13:48:47




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to gerard, 02-19-2006 15:51:22  
Now Clifford don't be catty!.....lol



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Mike in NC

02-19-2006 08:51:36




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 Re: harry ferguson 1955 in reply to arnie kirk, 02-19-2006 05:56:34  
Arnie---You have found the best place to start. I bought a 1951 TO-20 some years ago and the folks on this forum have helped me quite a bit; especially John in the UK. There are others on this forum with a lot more experience than I have to help you get the tractor cranked. If you do need a gas tank or other old hard to find parts, call Fitts Tractor in Cascade, Virginia (434)685-7850. Don't be surprised if a girl answers the phone. They inherited the business and do they ever know old tractors. I have been there and it is a virtual sea of parts tractors, many, many, Fergusons. Best of luck---Mike

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