1)"farm out... or shadetree mechanic" - I did it, I do live on a farm, but I am a shade tree mechanic - so I'll bet you can do it yourself just fine too. Drilling that set screw hole is hard because you have to drill 1/2 in the aluminum gear and 1/2 in the steel shaft. As you can imagine, the drill will want to drift into the aluminum. Don't try to drill this by hand (unless you have a steadier hand than most). Use a drill press and you will have no problem. If you don't have a drill press, I'll bet you know someone that does. I don't have one, but my neighbor did! Tapping the hole for the set screw is easy once the hole is drilled. You can also add a drop of threadlocker for extra insurance when you screw-in the set screw.
The drive gear is a TIGHT fit onto the pump shaft to start with. Hard to get it on straight. You can by a ~$40 tool marketed to help you do this job. If you feel like spending money on a tool that you will use maybe one time, go ahead, but you don't need it. You can drive the gear onto the pump shaft by clamping the pump in a vise, use a socket as a manrel over the gear, and tap it on with a hammer, or press it on with a shop press.2)"relief valve" - You can probably buy the relief valve separate from the pump rebuild kit if you want, BUT - the rebuild kit comes with the pump gears, gasket, relief valve guts, shaft bushings, and drive gear(alumimum gear). You will need a new gasket when you rip you pump open to inspect the pump gear clearance (that's not a knock, just the way it works). A rebuild kit costs ~$36. You will be about even, or better off to just buy the whole rebuild kit and use what you need, rather than buy the individual parts & pieces.
Follow the manual to check your gear backlash on the drive gear when you re-install. You may need to adjust the shims between the pump and block to adjust the backlash. Shims are not in the rebuild kit. If you need those, you will have to make-em, or buy-em.
George
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