How lno can it set before started? (off topic)

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The motor was started some 2-3 months after being assembled as I had to assemble the tractor, paint it, wire it etc and had oil pressure problems right from the start. It bounced up/down from 20-40 and followed the rpms. I changed gauges, oil, filters, pressure relief valves, etc and no diff. I decided to watch it. I broke the tractor in very easily and only drove it around for the first 5 hours and very light loads following. As the new motor accumulated hours the bouncing gradually tapered some as did the oil pressure. With 15 hours on the motor it was 20-35 cold, and 0 hot unless wound up where it may reach 10lbs. I even pulled the thermostat and let it run cooler but still eventually lost oil pressure. Draining the oil I noticed a lot of condensation in the oil from running without a thermostat. Knowing this was unacceptable for a motor with 15 hours I planned for a tear down and line bore.

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The other night I pulled the motor apart and its bad news. All 7 bearings are scarred and not re-usable. The crank looks like it needs turned again. I plastigauged the 7 bearings and all were around .002 (excluding the gouges)which is in the middle of the allowed clearance except for the front main which did not even register with my 0-.003 plastigague so its must be .004 to 5+. (way to big)

I'm not sure what exactly happened but I'm running with the theory that the front bearing (oil Pump) needed to be lined bored and is not centered causing the pulsing of the oil pressure as the crank oil hole rotated from the tight side to the loose side. The bottom end bearings gouges are a result of the assembly lube running out of the bearings before starting and the motor started with dry bearings. No oil pressure hot is due to the front bearing at .005 and the remainders damaged. This is the assy lube I used.

John

Howsomevers, looks like yer bearings were "BITT" by ye'ol sandblaster. NOT the bearing assy lube or the clearances.

Yes, the "pulsing" oil pressure is due to the weird #1 main bearing/oilpump combo. Did you check the sheet-metal suck'em-up? for looseness or seam cracks? Iff'n it wiggles, you'll loose yer "prime" which adds to yer gritty oil problem. Did you remember to "pack" yer oilpump gears with chassis greese? It helps to create the suck'em-up during first engine start-up.

Otherwize, cracked sheetmetal suck'em-up will LOOSE PRIME on long-time no-start. You can "re-prime" by pumping some 90wt oil back into the pump by removing the BIG-HEAD spring-loaded pressure relief valve BOLT behind the waterpump. Don't use engine oil 'cuz it'll leak thru yer gears before you can replace the spring-loaded pressure relief piston. And yes, the piston is supposed to be flat-spotted.

And YES, you ALWAYS need to LINE-BORE the replacement oilpump/journal cap.

Never heard of "pinning" the mainbearing caps. 0.001" clearance is MINIMUM, 0.005" is MAXIMUM.

Use 30wt detergent rated for DIESEL (long story, EPA has REMOVED high pressure additives because they "kill" catalytic converters) for first 10-hrs, then you should be good to go with 20-50wt modern multi-vis.

It takes about 10-hrs of engine running time to oil-pressure wash the assy lube out of the bearing shell interspace. That stuff is sticky. Its better'n that old standby of "Lubriplate"..... ..Dell, the NON-authority

My first guess wuz were did all the dirt come from that got the bearings, thats a rite good assessment you made.

These Ferg guys have been kind enough to help me with my TO35 dlx since last August and I was just offering a "don't do as I did" lesson or "Learn from what happened to me" instead of always taking info. Most of the basics still apply and some of these guys have Fords as well.

I read somewhere else on the additive removal for API rating and I think I'll light her up on Rotella T. I'm with you and think pinning the caps is way overkill but for now I'll go with thier reccomendation. We'll see what it looks like when I pick it up.
Thanks for the advice

80)-mike

-mike