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Lets go through this systematically. First check your spark by pulling the wire ouof the center of the distributor cap, holding it near a good ground, turning on the ignition and trying a start. What dou you see at the wire. If it's anything but a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, your primary ignition circuit has a problem and needs to be looked at. Bad points (burned or corroded) wrong point gap, bad key switch, wrong hook up at coil (wire to distributor from the coil must be connected to the coil terminal with the same sign as the electrical system ground or you lose half the sprk enery.), bad or dirty/corroded connections connections, damaged wiring, bad coil, no reistor in a "half breed" primary circuit(12 V system with 6 V coil and a resistor), etc. A weak spark will ignite a richer mixture. If you have a the requisite FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, then check the fuel delivery by opening the tank valve fully, holding a suitable container under the carb and removing the plug at the bottom of the carb. The gas should CONTINUOUSLY GUSH OUT LIKE A COW PEEIN' ON A FLAT ROCK for at least 60 seconds! if the flow is intermittent, dribles, etc, you have a fuel delivery problem. Check the filters( there are three), the fuel delivery line, the vent hole in the gas cap, the float setting, etc. If you do have adequate fuel flow, then you may have an air leak around the carb metering system. These usually occur around the throttle shaft, the carb to manifold connection, the manifold itself (cracks or pin holes), or the manifold to head connection (bad gasket, crack, etc). To check this, start the engine and CAREFULLY ( It's flamable!) squirt starter fluid around the areas mentioned above. If the rpm jumps up when you spray a particular area, you found the air leak. Do these checks in the order described and you will most likely find the root cause of your problem.
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