1948 TE20 muli problems

When I tried to start it back it fired right up, but it sounded like I had left the exhaust off because it made a horrible racket. so I turned it off after only 5 or 10 seconds run time, checked the exhaust hookup and all was tight.

Tried to start it again and nothing put clicking, from the sylenoid. So I pulled it off and went and bought another one. When I put it on the tractor I could not get even a clik out of it so I put the old one back onto the tractor and now it won't even click.

I checked the charge on the battery and charged it to 100% and still nothing.

The previous owner said he had recently had it converted over to 12 volts. but after running the tractor for an hour he melted off the ground wire.

Thanks: Murray

Sounds like you have a non OEM starter switch if you have a solenoid. I wonder if the person who converted your electrical system changed the ground from the old positive ground on the 6v to the required negative ground on the 12V alternator system. (I"m presuming you have a 12V alternator not a Generator.) The ground lead on the battery should never get so hot that it melts.
The ominous solenoid click when you go to start is commonly caused by the solenoid engaging but not eneough current through the main solenoid contacts to cause the starter to turn. This usually caused by poor battery connections( dirty , corroded, etc), corrosion of the battery cables under the insulation or a break in the wire or too small a wire gauge on the cable. It can also be a faulty starter. WITH THE TRACTOR OUT OF GEAR, use jumper cables to jump from the battery to the starter. If the starter turns the engine over, the problem is in the solenoid part of the circuit. If the starter doesn"t turn, that"s the problem. Could be a dirty commutator, worn brushes, open field coil, etc. You"ll have to pull it and get it to a place that can test it and do some diagnostics on it.
Are you sure the solenoid is wired correctly? from the battery thru the ignition switch through the starter switch

I'm pretty sure I hooked the plug wires back up correctly.

I do have an Alternator.

I'll try the jumpercable trick & see what happens..

Wiring size comming off of battery is comperable to what I have on my car & truck roughly 1/2" DIA. I think this should do the trick. All connections seem to be tight.

Where can I find a good wiring diagram of how this thing is supposed to be wired if its a 12 volt system. I think it may be wired wrong to melt the cable.

But I still don't know why it ran one minute and not the next. I was getting a ticking out of the sylenoid before I chaged it and NOTHING afterwards????? ??

On the sylenoid it has one big wire form the battery attached to it then directly across from it it has another big wire running to the starter. Also attached with the batery wire is a small wire that runs to the voltage meter..

It has one small wire running to the altinator & one small wire running to the key from the other two small studs on the sylenoid.

Thanks:
Murray

I also checked the on the plate above the steeering wheel, the first two letters are TE..

I took the battery and had it tested, it is good, SO I bought new battery cables #4 gage. I will install them this evening.

I did not try the jumpercable trick but I will this evening.

JERRY, you wrote yesterday: I wonder if the person who converted your electrical system changed the ground from the old positive ground on the 6v to the required negative ground on the 12V alternator system. (I"m presuming you have a 12V alternator not a Generator.) The ground lead on the battery should never get so hot that it melts.

How do I tell if the person who converted the electrical system changed the ground from the old positive ground on the 6v to the required negative ground on the 12V alternator system?

See Attaced Photos:?

Thanks;
Murray

• Tractor Photo

George

• Right side of tractor Photo

I installed new battery wires, insured all wires connected with the ignition system were tight, turned the key & it fired right up..

Now have a major exhaust leak.. Its either where the manifold meets the head, or where the manifold meets the exhaust pipe.

I left the manifold on the head when I removed the head to replace the head gasket, so don't know why it would start leaking all of a sudden.

I re checked the joint where the manifold meets the exhaust pipe, should there be a gasket (Donut gasket) between this joint?

Since my last post the tractor has set, I have done nothing until two weeks ago, I brought it to a friend who works on tractors for a living and I ordered a few parts off this web site for him to put on. While delivering the first round of parts to him he shows me that the valve seats are leaking so I told him to pull it off and run the head to the machine shop and have them replaced, then last night he calls and tells me that the machine shop says the head is cracked and that they cannot repair it..

What information to I need off the tractor/motor to start my search for a good head. Does anyone know where to look for another head.

Thanks:
Murray