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Since you don"t have a spark, you most likely have a problem in the primary ignition circuit. It could be a loose dirty/corroded connection, a bad ignition switch, bad points( burned or corroded) or incorrect point setting, or a failed coil. Some times a 6 V coil is used without a resistor in a 12v electrical system. If that"s what you have you may have overheated the coil and it shorted internally. they will restart in a short time only to quit again. Try starting after a 15-30 minute cool down. If it starts, then that may be your problem. If you have a 12v system and you don"t have a true 12V coil, NAPA carries an IC-14SB coil(~$15) that"s a true 12V coil. If you have a coil that says 12V "Use with external resistor", you"ll need to get the real 12V coil or put a resistor in series with the coil to limit the current to 4 amps max.It will have to have a hot resistance of ~1.5 ohms.What kind of coil do you have? 12v, 6V or pseudo 12v with resistor? If you have a voltmeter, pull the distributor cap and crank the engine til the points close. Leave the key switch on. Then take your voltmeter and measure voltage to ground at both sides of the key switch, to the battery side of the coil, to the distributor side of the coil and at the points terminal. You should have battery voltageo both sides of the key switch and at the battery side of the coil,and near zero volts at the distributor side of the coil and at the points connection. Now crank the engine til the points OPEN. Measure the voltage to ground at the distributor side of the coil. It should be battery voltage. If it is not, the coil primary is open. If there is a resistor in the circuit then you"ll see battery resistance to the resistor(points closed), then 5.5-6.0 V down stream of the resistor to the battery side of the distributor and then near zero the rest of the way. points open you"ll see battery voltage to th distributor side of the coil. Hope this helps you.
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