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FYI alternator hookup

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Neal(IN)

05-29-2001 11:13:09




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This may be old news but I haven't seen it here so I thought I would post it.
I wanted to do away with the diode/marker lite/flasher in my alternator hookup. I bought a replacement ignition switch which has three terminals, battery, ignition and lights. I hooked the ignition, voltmeter, tachometer to the ignition terminal and only the wire from the alternator to the light terminal. When the switch is off the alternator is disconnected from everything else so the battery can't run down. Seems to work fine so far.

Neal

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Boogity

05-29-2001 15:28:31




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 Re: FYI alternator hookup in reply to Neal(IN), 05-29-2001 11:13:09  
Could you please explain a little more? I have a TO-30 with a 12V conversion. The wiring looks a little suspect to me and I cannot keep the battery charged at all. I'm new to all this tractor stuff and I love it, so far. My Fergy leaks oil so badly that I can only run it for 45 minutes and it's time to fill the crankcase again. I'm going to split it soon and really get into trouble trying to overhaul it. Thanks.

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Neal(IN)

05-30-2001 04:38:56




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 Re: Re: FYI alternator hookup in reply to Boogity, 05-29-2001 15:28:31  
I will try. I'm not near my wiring diagram so if this doesn't do the trick let me know and I will try again.
My conversion uses a 3 wire alternator with an internal voltage regulator.
On the alternator there are two slip on type connections and one stud. one wire that goes on the stud should be 10 gauge and connect to the positive side of the battery. The second wire goes from the stud to the slip on terminal marked P2 and is 16 gauge.
The third wire is where I did mine a little different. This wire (from the P1 terminal) is usually hooked to the ignition switch at the same point as the wire to the coil and anything else that gets power when the switch is on. I hooked this wire to the third terminal (light or accessory terminal) on the switch instead. In the normal setup, something is required to prevent current from flowing back through the alternator when the switch is off and draining the battery. On my setup when the switch is off the alternator wire is completely isolated by the switch.
The only negatives (not really in my opinion) are that I will have to use a seperate switch for any lights and when I turn on my ignition I have to remember to turn the switch to the second position.
My switch works like this. All the way left is everything off. first click to the right is ignition only and second click is ignition and lights (or in my case alternator) so I need to go to the second position to power the alternator.
If your system is not charging you might want to take the alternator to Auto Zone or somebody like that. They will usually check the alternator for free and then you will know for sure it is ok.
Hope this helps. Ask away if you need more.

Neal

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