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Starting Crank

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Al from Ontario

10-27-2001 08:53:11




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Can some body post the dimensions of the starting crank for a TEA 20-80? Right now my starter is out for rebuilding and it would be handy to be able to start the tractor. I can fabricate the crank, but I need dimensions. Also useful would be a description of how to safely use a starting crank.

Thank you

Al.




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Al from Ontario

10-29-2001 18:04:12




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 Re: Starting Crank in reply to Al from Ontario, 10-27-2001 08:53:11  
Thanks to all for the information. I am now fabricating a starting crank, and I aim to keep all my fingers and teeth right where they are. A further question on crank starting however. On my tractor, the choke knob returns to off as soon as it is released, I always thought that this is how it was supposed to be. But this would make it impossible to use the choke and hand crank the tractor at the same time, unless you had help. The manuals do not indicate if there is supposed to be a friction lock of some sort on the choke. Do your tractors have chokes that return to off when released, or do I have something else to add to the list of things to be rebuilt?

Thanks again

Al.

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Joe Ferguson

10-30-2001 09:12:35




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 Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to Al from Ontario, 10-29-2001 18:04:12  
Hi AL

You may use a wooden clothe's pin at rear of the knob to hold it pulled and remove it after engine
is running.

I prefer that the choke returns at its off
position by itself because I'm sure to not forget it pulled.

Good luck

Joe Ferguson



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Joe Ferguson

10-29-2001 13:28:54




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 Re: Starting Crank in reply to Al from Ontario, 10-27-2001 08:53:11  
Hi AL

Yes cranking by pulling up so if the engine kiks
the crank will escape from your hand.
If you push down and the engine kiks you will
receive the crank handle righ in the kisser.

One more thing.... be sure that the transmission
shifter is in neutral position before atempt to
use the crank.

if you are not sure ...of do's and don'ts
when using the crank...I strongly suggest....
have your starter repaired it will avoid you
mucho problemos.

Good luck

Joe Ferguson

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Jim W

10-27-2001 16:29:09




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 Re: Starting Crank in reply to Al from Ontario, 10-27-2001 08:53:11  
Here you go:
3/4" diameter, total length required is 27 1/2". The part your hand holds is 5"; the part that slides into the front of the tractor is 15", and the part that forms the offset is the other 7 1/2". These numbers are eyeballed with a tape measure to the centre of the bends.
The pegs to engage the crank bolt are damaged on mine, so it's hard to tell their diameter, but it seems to be 0.315" on average. They are about 0.39" back from the end (on centre).

As far as starting, be sure never to hook your thumb around the crank handle, which is the normal thiing you'd tend to do. It can kick back and snap your thumb off faster than you can let go, so always have your thumb on the same side as your fingers. Turn the motor to where you begin to feel substantial compression, but not quite maximum, then get the crank positioned so it's at about 1 o'clock as you look at it from the front. Give it a quick push downwards (watch your thumb!)and if it wants to start, away you go. The idea is to crank it fast enough that you generate a healthy enough spark to get it to fire. Hope it helps,
Jim from Ontario

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stevie_alc

10-27-2001 19:39:13




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 Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to Jim W, 10-27-2001 16:29:09  
We always pulled up on the crank

stevie_alc



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Bob K

10-29-2001 11:47:53




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 Re: Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to stevie_alc, 10-27-2001 19:39:13  
Great info on the web folks. I was doing a little garden ploughing yesterday with my 1951 TEA 20-85 and the crank jumped off the darn thing. I didn't notice this until I was heading back to the barn and I suspect the crank is now under a furrow. Thanks for the dimensions Jim.

Guess I have been lucky on the "down" cranking but never too old to do things more safely - do you start to pull up from about 7:00 o'clock when facing the front of the tractor?

Thanks
Bob

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Ray,IN

10-29-2001 17:53:04




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to Bob K, 10-29-2001 11:47:53  
Bob K, I have always started with the crank handle at 9 o-clock, this is enough to fire the engine and not enough to overextend my arm. I then pull(with thumb safely beside my forefinger) up and out- to insure that the crank drive pins disengage when the engine fires. I once saw the crank stay engaged when the engine fired, it threw Dad about 6 feet away and wrenched his arm and shoulder.



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Jim W

10-28-2001 06:07:20




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 Re: Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to stevie_alc, 10-27-2001 19:39:13  
Yes yes! Pull up! What was I thinking! Sorry about that; I hope your arm is still in one piece.
Jim



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Ray,IN

10-27-2001 22:10:51




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 Re: Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to stevie_alc, 10-27-2001 19:39:13  
Steve is correct. I have never seen anyone hand crank an engine by pushing down on the crank. This sounds like an accident waiting to happen; if the engine backfires where will your head be when the crank suddenly pops back up? Jim, have you considered parking the tractor on a hill and coast starting it, or pull starting? If you have never hand cranked an engine before you really need someone experienced to work with you to avoid a broken hand or worse. I distinctly remember that old F14 of Dads, done incorrectly, the crank was deadly.

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Jone

10-28-2001 15:05:27




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Starting Crank in reply to Ray,IN, 10-27-2001 22:10:51  
Hello Guys...

I almost got loose teeth because of this, and I`m only 16 and thats too early to loose your teeth.So this should only be done with caution, and the thumbs on the Right side not the wrong side.Hope you`l get it running, and please tell us what happened, sinse im in the middle of a rebuild process, of a TEA 1950, I`m wery interested..... "Watch your teeth" :-))



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