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Overload spring disassembly on TE20

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Barry Larkin

12-19-2001 05:21:40




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The triangular mount on the tractor end of the hydraulic overload spring has rusted & broken to the extent that the spring is no longer held securely. To replace/repair it I need to unscrew the outer end (3 point link) to remove the spring. How much force can I use as I don't want to damage the other end where it attaches internally. Any ideas would be appreciated.




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Joe in NY

12-22-2001 12:07:51




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 Re: Overload spring disassembly on TE20 in reply to Barry Larkin, 12-19-2001 05:21:40  
Barry,

The cover rusting is a firly common problem. I have repaired a few. Water collects in that area and once the cover rusts through water can enter along the rod and contaminate the hydraulic oil.
If it were me I would pull the cover and inspect the top of the lift cover. The water seems to condense in that area. At minimum pull inspection cover on the side and look with a light as to the condition of lift piston and fork. The triangle cover is sheet metal that covers a triangular metal plate. I had to use two 1/4 inch flat plates cut in a triangle with the inner plate drilled out to hold the fiber seal the other is drilled to rod size. I'll send a picture to your e-mail and show you one I rebuilt. Good luck, Joe

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Dan in LA

12-20-2001 18:08:25




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 Re: Overload spring disassembly on TE20 in reply to Barry Larkin, 12-19-2001 05:21:40  
Barry,

I've taken two of them off in the last six months. I had to heat the outer link cheery red with a torch and let it cool off. Then applied penetrating oil while keeping the pressure on. I used an oil called Aerokroil made in Tennessee. It helps if you can get something like vise grips or channelocks on the shaft. That Shaft WILL break (I've seen a number of them) or it will break the connecting piece inside the lift cover.

I'm supprised you can get the spring seat, felt washer and the sping seat cover. My local Ferguson dealer said they didn't make them anymore and couldn't be had for any amount of money. (They aren't an MF dealer anymore either)

Hope this helps

Dan

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Shawn in Ohio

12-19-2001 07:35:32




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 Re: Overload spring disassembly on TE20 in reply to Barry Larkin, 12-19-2001 05:21:40  
Barry, I just repaired the same problem on my TO30. The outer piece will unscrew off with a little coaxing and some good penetrating oil. Start by disconnecting the top link bracket from it and put a bar through the piece and unscrew it. Then take the three bolts off so you can remove whats left of the bracket, and the spring etc. I had to replace three parts on mine. The triangle shaped piece the felt piece and the sleeve that the spring butts up against. These parts were all available at my local MF dealer. He didn't stock them but they have a national parts locator service, so press them to use this and they can get these for you. Hope this helps.

Shawn

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JW

12-19-2001 14:07:38




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 Re: Re: Overload spring disassembly on TE20 in reply to Shawn in Ohio, 12-19-2001 07:35:32  
Contrary to Shawn's experience I had one awful time getting that piece off. It took more than "a little coaxing"! I had the lift cover off and with that end piece in a vice, tried rotating the whole assembly. By then I had the cylinder and the linkage all removed. I applied as much force as I dared, which kept increasing the more frustrated I got. I nearly ripped the vice off my workbench. I kept applying penetrating oil and tried again every day or two for a couple of weeks, when finally one day I heard a sound like a crack, which fortunately was the piece beginning to turn on the threads.
My local MF dealer told me he could not find the parts at the tractor end of the spring. What I did was to get a thick bar of steel (maybe 3/8") and drill a hole in one end. The top bolt holding the triangle piece now also holds this steel bar, which is long enough to hang between the lower two bolts. The spring rests against the bar and so is pushed farther back.
There is also a tube inside the spring that goes around the central rod. Mine was broken in several pieces so I had to weld it up etc. The whole area was pretty rough but it's back in good shape now and everything works well.
Hope this is clear.
Jim

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