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3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring

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Ben Hogue

01-31-2002 07:34:46




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I've searched the archives and the IT manuals for Fergusons and N-series Fords trying to figure out what's wrong with the lift on my TO-30. Here's what I know:

It happened suddenly. The lift would not raise. (I had a scoop on it at the time.) When I engage the lift, the lift arms don't even start to strain at the load. But, when I took the scoop off, the lift arms raised, and I could stand on them and they held my considerable weight.

The problem is apparently caused by a situation with the draft control mechanism, as I can pull on the hydraulic lift rocker (where the top link attaches) and the lift arms will drop, and the control spring suddenly gets lots of endplay. I've never been inside of one of these beasts, but it looks from the diagrams like maybe the internal spring on the control plunger might be stuck or broken. I know there are lots of guys out there who've had vast experience with Ferguson 3-pt lifts, so have any of you run into this before? Is there another possible cause? HELP! I need this tractor to work so I can get my orchard ready to plant.

Thanks,
Ben

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Ben Hogue

02-04-2002 06:19:56




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 Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 01-31-2002 07:34:46  
Thanks for all the advice. I got lucky over the weekend (no, not THAT way). I tightened up the master control spring, like the book says, and adjusted the yoke toward the rear. Suddenly, the lift works again. I was not able to get it to start falling when the control lever is at precisely 2 3/8" down (or whatever the manual measurement is), but for now, it's fine.

The only question that remains is why it decided to take a holiday. I'm sure that the yoke didn't slip out of position, because it was secure.

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Ray,IN

02-04-2002 19:44:05




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 Re: Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 02-04-2002 06:19:56  
Glad to hear the news! I hope my emailed hyds page helped. After reading through my first post it's not very helpful, sorry.



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Ben Hogue

02-05-2002 06:43:18




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 Re: Re: Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ray,IN, 02-04-2002 19:44:05  
Thanks, Ray. I had seen your hydraulics animation before, but I had forgotten where. It did help to fix in my mind how the controls work, which re-inforced my idea about adjusting the yoke. It's a really good, simplified explanation, and I'm sure it's helped lots of folks understand the mechanism.

B.



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Jim W

02-01-2002 08:11:54




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 Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 01-31-2002 07:34:46  
I had a problem similar to yours and it ended up being that the linkage had become partly disconnected from the control valve. There is a little clip that holds the so-called "control valve T" on to the valve. A small spring on the control valve applies constant pressure to this clip, helping it stay in place. The clip had flown off, as well as the spring, leaving my control valve T only hanging on to the linkage on one side, so it would get stuck here and there as I moved the quadrant lever, causing erratic behaviour.
Your problem could certainly be different but I would definitely investigate down at the bottom. My hydraulic oil was full of dirt and water, and I suspect that the control valve T came apart when someone tried to force it while frozen. It sits right at the bottom where all that crap settles.
Here is a handy url to check out - also check the two links at the bottom called "The action".

Also, I should mention that I only finally really understood the system once I had it all apart. If you are taking off the lift cover, only remove the bolts around the perimeter. The other four are holding the cylinder in place.
Jim W

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Ben Hogue

02-01-2002 06:36:01




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 Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 01-31-2002 07:34:46  
Thanks for the feedback. In studying it further, it looks like I should do some adjusting first. My theory is that if I adjust the end play out of the external control spring, that will move the control arm back a bit. (The maximum amount of endplay in the external control spring looks like about 1/8".) I should be able to compensate for this rear movement (which seems to be opening the relief valve) by moving the quadrant toward the rear so that when the lever is activated, it will cause the control arm to pivot around the internal draft control rod connection enough to open the intake valve. The quadrant is fairly far forward now, so there is room to move it to the rear.

I only wonder why the lift suddenly went dead. My only explanation is that the external control spring might have been rusted in place, and when it came loose, the end play was evident, and a weight on the top link would then cause the internal draft control rod to move to the rear, opening the relief valve.

Anyway, I'll try it this weekend.

Thanks!

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Jack M, UK

02-01-2002 05:21:21




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 Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 01-31-2002 07:34:46  
When I took apart my hydraulics, I loosened the control spring, and it did just as you have described. I tightened the spring, clockwise, and it solved the problem.
Start with half a turn, and work up.
I hope it works, and tell me if it does not.
Regards Jack M



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Ray,IN

01-31-2002 18:42:21




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 Re: 3-Pt. Problem: Control Spring in reply to Ben Hogue, 01-31-2002 07:34:46  
The first thing I'll suggest is to visit a MF dealer and purchase a reprint of the original owners manual. It details the proper maintanence proceedures for the mechanically inclined owner. The shop manual will detail everything about your tractor, and will be worth the money. Next I'll try to convey my understanding of your problem. The master control spring is attached to a rod with a piston at the end. This piston controls the hyds. to prevent the tractor from pivoting on the rear wheels while using a ground implement and it strikes a immovable object. The piston releases hyd presssure in the lift cylinder and allows the 3pt free movement to prevent damage/injury. You can remove the top casting(under seat) to work on the cylinder that raises the 3pt arms. Before disassembling anything you may remove the rt round side plate(dipstick side) and while a 2nd person operates the tractor you look inside with a light and determine where,if any, oil is spraying down. If the lift cylinder is bad you'll see the oil leaking. Email me if you wish,Norton AV 2002 works fine, my computer is clean. That's my brainstorm for tonight, I've gotta go find an asprin! Good Luck!

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