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Ford NAA Hydraulic adjustment

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Allen

10-23-1999 16:37:15




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Was having trouble lifting blade up high and keeping it up. I tore into it today and found the piston rubber "O" ring is cracked and there was no leather gasket. Obviously needs replaced. When I put it back together how do you adjust the relief valve down below? Are there any other adjustments that should be made? There is a slight flat spot on the pin that rides on the half moon looking piece...is this of much concern? Any help greatly appreciated!

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Allen

10-26-1999 20:40:46




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 Re: Ford NAA Hydraulic adjustment in reply to Allen, 10-23-1999 16:37:15  
Thanks Zane & Buck for the information. I've got some parts on order (the pin) but started putting things back together tonite. I had a dickens of a time putting the leather ring on the piston... I boiled it in water for over 30 minutes before I could get it to slip over the piston. I believe I must have the newer type piston since the groove is near center on the piston. As for the check valve at the bottom I fiddled with the screw on top...I don't know if it adjusts anything or not. After Zane's comments I think I'll leave well enough alone. THANKS AGAIN... You Guys are great as is this Board.

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Buck

10-26-1999 18:04:43




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 Re: Ford NAA Hydraulic adjustment in reply to Allen, 10-23-1999 16:37:15  

Zane covered this well but there is one thing that I might add. There are two types of pistons for this lift type A & B I believe. The later type has the groove for the o ring and gasket further form the top of the piston than the early one does. I would venture to guess that most of these have been replaced but yours may be an exception. The early type would allow the o ring and gasket to travel out of the piston bore.

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ZANE

10-25-1999 05:46:21




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 Re: Ford NAA Hydraulic adjustment in reply to Allen, 10-23-1999 16:37:15  
You should not do anything to the high pressure relief valve that is in the bottom of the lift.It is preset and never gives trouble.
There is a pressure relief valve at the ram cylinder and it would be the one to replace if it is leaking but the tractor needs to be assembled and the right side inspection plate removed so that you can observe any leaking at the relief valve when under a load.


There is a cam attached to the rocker shaft that is inside the lift housing.This is what the outside lift arms are attached to.The ram rod for the lift cylender's rear end is attached to the lever cast beside the cam.There is a cam follower that is pressed into the control linkage.It is a pin of approx. 5/16" diameter and one inch long.There is no lubrication at this point in the lift and the pin wears out causing the gradual lose of adjustment travel.The pin must be replaced and the linkage re adjusted as per specifications which I don't know off the top of my head and which usually takes a feeler type gauge to measure between the control valve head and the cylender housing where the control valve goes into the spool in the housing. Now is definately the time to replace the cam follower pin. That much wear does make a lot of difference in how the lift works and when it starts to lift according to where the lift control is positioned.
I would defininately obain the correct part to replace it with.Don't go with a cut off bolt etc. as it will wear down too quick.If you are going to consider using a bolt etc you may as well leave the old pin in place because with it worn half way into it out last a bolt etc.
I shouldn't tell you this ,but I have used and ole valve stem by grinding off a piece of proper length.The repalcement is a hardened pin and it has to be hard to prevent rapid wear.Their is no lubrication to the pin. If you foolishly decide to use a valve stem it should be measured with a micrometer to assure the right diameter.If it is a couple of thousands too smalll it may fall out and if it is too large you will ruin the hole it goes in,then the right pin will fall out. Be sure and support the linkage as close to the pin hole as possible while driving the pin in or out.You can do this by holding a long heavy flat ended bar by the pin as it is driven out with a punch of correct diameter. Usually takes two people to do it. One to hammer and one to cuss.


If the pin is not worn too much and can be removed without too much damage you can turn it over to the unworn side and put it back in. Just be absolutely sure it is not expanded in size by hammering on it as it will ruin the hole size it goes in and then you will really have problems.

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