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5000 Blowing Oil

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Robert

01-04-2000 11:26:01




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My 5000 is blowing oil out between the head an the block on the left side.It is worst when sitting still at WOT.It has an aftermarket turbo installed on it.I once read that they can cause this.Anyone ever hear of this.Thanks Robert




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JHEnt

01-04-2000 16:36:57




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 Re: 5000 Blowing Oil in reply to Robert, 01-04-2000 11:26:01  
This is pretty common. I have a 7710 and two 6610s that have had this same problem. The oil comes out of the push rod passage so its not a pressure fed area. I've been told it has to do with the thickness of the block and the rate of heat dissipation between the two parts. I put a new head gasket on one of the 6610's last year. That has fixed it for a few more years anyway. The 7710 has been doing this for over 5 years now but the amount of leakage is so small I haven't wanted to pull its head yet. The other 6610 I will have to do this year but with its oil blowby out the breather tube its going to need a set of rings(at least) anyway. Its not hard to change the head gaskets but with the manifolds attached to the head, it is very heavy. I would suggest having someone to help you lift it on and off.

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Bern

01-04-2000 12:28:07




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 Re: 5000 Blowing Oil in reply to Robert, 01-04-2000 11:26:01  
Early 5000s used a rather thin head gasket, and these had a propensity to leak and/or blow with regularity until Ford came out with a thicker gasket in the later models. Installing a turbo would obviously only compound this problem on the earlier tractors, as many non-turboed tractors have the same problems.

If you do in fact have the thin gasket on your engine, don't change over to a thick one unless you wan't to use ether every time you have to start the thing. Best you can do is to surface the head perfectly flat (it will almost certainly need to be done if the gasket is blown), make sure the block is withing .003" or so of being flat (Ford "allows" .006", but this is pushing your luck with the thin gasket), and then be careful when reinstalling the head. By this I mean make sure your head bolts and block threads are clean, the bolts are oiled, and that you torque the bolts to 115 ft/lbs. I would then retorque the bolts after the engine has run a few hours. Make sure you retorque the bolts when the engine is cold.

If you have done all this, then it is the best you can do, unless you want to change to taller pistons and go with the thicker head gasket. Another thought would be to shave the block .020" or so, but that would obviously be a lot of work!

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Robert

01-04-2000 16:15:48




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 Re: Re: 5000 Blowing Oil in reply to Bern, 01-04-2000 12:28:07  
Thanks for the info Bern.Also will it hurt to use the tractor.It is not leaking a lot.I have been using it about two months this way.Is is the oil comeing from piston blowby or an oil passage.Mayby I should retorque the head bolts,they could be loose.One more thing.Is it hard to remove & reinstall the head. >Robert



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Bern

01-04-2000 17:58:39




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 Re: Re: Re: 5000 Blowing Oil in reply to Robert, 01-04-2000 16:15:48  
No, it will not hurt to run it this way. It will just make a mess. The oil in question here is coming from the pushrod passages, which is not under pressure.

I doubt retorquing the head bolts will cure the problem. Many times, you actually go backwards doing this as the head bolts are usually rusted/corroded in the block anyway, so you can't get the proper torque on the bolts.

Changing the head gasket is not hard, just a little time consuming.

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brian

01-05-2000 01:34:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 5000 Blowing Oil in reply to Bern, 01-04-2000 17:58:39  
When we replaced the gaskets in the dealerships, we always used a good quality gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket along the edge of the pushrod gallery and round the rear water jacket only. Not all over the gasket. This works well.



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