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1956 ford 600 brakes

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scott

11-03-1998 17:14:05




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I have a '56 Ford 600 tractor, but I have no brakes. I'm assuming the shoes are bad. Is this too hard of a project to tackle by yourself, or should the reinforcements be called in?? What's all involved so I could base a decision by next spring?? Thanks!!




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Dan (IN)

11-06-1998 06:07:32




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 Re: 1956 ford 600 brakes in reply to scott, 11-03-1998 17:14:05  
: I have a '56 Ford 600 tractor, but I have no brakes. I'm assuming the shoes are bad. Is this too hard of a project to tackle by yourself, or should the reinforcements be called in?? What's all involved so I could base a decision by next spring??
: Thanks!!
: Brakes are fairly easy on the 600 series because the drums come off just like the brakes on a truck or a car. Get yourself a manual (I&T is adequate, factory is better) and have at it. The most dangerous part of the job is jacking it up and removing the tires. I use a high-lift jack, available many places. Use real jack stands, not blocks. The springs can also be dangerous. Get yourself a real spring installation removal tool from Sears or an auto parts store. Don't succumb to the temptation to use vice-grip pliers to install/remove the springs, an aquaintance of mine lost an eye doing that.

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John Mitchell

11-03-1998 20:53:11




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 Re: 1956 ford 600 brakes in reply to scott, 11-03-1998 17:14:05  
: I have a '56 Ford 600 tractor, but I have no brakes. I'm assuming the shoes are bad. Is this too hard of a project to tackle by yourself, or should the reinforcements be called in?? What's all involved so I could base a decision by next spring??
: Thanks!!
:

Scott,
What exactly do you mean by "no brakes"? Does this mean the brake pedal goes all the way down and the tractor doesn't slow down or stop? Or do you mean the shoe linings are so worn you only have metal to metal contact when you apply the brakes?

If you mean the pedal has no effect and goes all the way down to the foot board,then you might be in luck,and I suggest you try this before you go much further.

Starting by looking at the left and right brake drum backing plates from the rear of the tractor,there are oblong vertical slots with a little rectangular metal plug blocking vertical slot,(one rectangular plug on each brake drum backing plate of the tractor)..

Carefully pry the plugs out of the slots,using a straight end screwdriver, using the same type of screwdriver,adjust the brake star adjustment wheel,(if you'll look in the slot you'll see this star adjustment wheel and figure out whice direction to turn the star adjuster to expand it and move the brake shoes towards the drum.)

Use the screwdriver to rotate the star wheel to move the brake shoes out toward the drum,turn the star adjuster a few turns and then go press on the pedal of whice ever brake you've adjusted..If you feel resistance and the pedal doesn't go down as far,then you are turning the adjuster in the correct direction. Adjust the star adjusters until you get a good pedal for each side.(the book says jack the tractor up and rotate the star aduster until the brakes drag and then back the adjuster off until the wheel will rotate),but I have found the method I outlined works as well.

If adjusting the brakes doesn't work,or you hear a grinding noise when you apply the brakes,then the brake shoes and/or return springs are probably shot and will need to replaced or relined..Either way ,purchase the correct I&T workshop manual for the tractor and follow the procedure they use for replacing the shoes.

Hope this Helps

John

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