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2000 clutch repairs how to?

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Ed

11-12-2000 10:33:27




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I posted a message yesterday, but the only reply I got was an admonishment to never loan out my tractor. Unfortunatly, that horse is already out of the barn. Here is the original post and If I wasn't prepaired to have my tractor returned broken, I would not have loaned it out. Thanks all. I loaned my 1974, three cylinder Ford 2000, 8 speed, live PTO tractor to a friend. An hour later I was pulling it home with a burned out clutch. My question is, how much should I expect to have pay for parts, how much for labor and if I elect to do this myself (one time experienced auto mechanic) how long should it take. Are there any 'tricks of the trade' to spliting one of these? Does the steering gear stay attached to the transmission? Does the sheet metal split at around the same place as the transmission? Do I take the hydraulic pump loose from the engine? I need the tractor running again quickly and any help or direction will be greatly appreciated..

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Bern

11-12-2000 12:40:45




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 Re: 2000 clutch repairs how to? in reply to Ed, 11-12-2000 10:33:27  
Ed, splitting one of these tractors is not hard. The steering box stays on the trans. The sheet metal splits right behind the engine after unbolting and removing the hood. Simply remove the two bolts holding the front of the fuel tank to the bracket, also remove the four bolts holding the perimeter of the rear hood to the bracket. The bracket that is bolted to the back of the head will then come forward with the engine when you split it.

What I do is support the trans with a bottle jack and roll out the engine and front end on a floor jack. Be sure when you do this that you block up the front axle to prevent the engine from rocking on the front axle once it is rolled apart. If you don't do this, chances are the engine will roll off the jack when you roll it out. The hydraulic pump has to be unbolted from the engine. I usually leave the lines attached and block the pump up so the drive gear clears the engine. The pump and lines then will stay behind with the trans, yet you shouldn't have to worry about bleeding it when you go back together because you didn't open up any lines.

The clutch itself will either be single or two stage, depending on the type of PTO you have. A single disc clutch is very easy to work on, a double disc two stage clutch ideally requires the use of a special jig to set up the pressure plate (if necessary). You will also need an alignment tool to center both drive discs with the two stage clutch. This will be all but impossible to do without the special tool. A single clutch can be successfully centered without the special tool if you are careful.

When you go to put this thing back together, make yourself up two dowels out of 6" long 5/8" coarse thread bolts. Screw one into each side of the trans. This really helps for alignment when you go to put it back together. Also, when you are trying to get the engine and trans mated that last couple of inches or so, have a buddy grab a pair of pliers and turn the rear PTO shaft (with the PTO lever engaged). This helps in the splne line up process quite a bit.

As for cost, again, it would depend on the type of clutch you have. It also depends on whether the tractor has a loader on it or not. Working around a loader obviously complicates the labor. I would figure a good 8-10 hour job if the thing has a loader and the pressure plate needs overhauled. That's the best I can do for you cost wise. Hope this helps.

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Ed

11-12-2000 15:43:33




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 Re: Re: 2000 clutch repairs how to? in reply to Bern, 11-12-2000 12:40:45  
Bern,
Thanks a ton. The info you provided was exactly what I was lookin for. I do have the double clutch. I have never done a clutch in a tractor, but it sure looks easier than many of the trucks i have worked on. If the pressure plate looks ok and the springs have not been overheated, is it common practice to reuse it, or should it be replaced without question? Thanks again for a great post.
Ed

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Bern

11-12-2000 17:37:33




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 Re: Re: Re: 2000 clutch repairs how to? in reply to Ed, 11-12-2000 15:43:33  
Ed, in many ways, it is a lot easier than working on a truck. You don't have to crawl underneath the thing and remove the trans. You just stand next to it and split the thing!

Having said that, the double clutch will likely look a little intimidating to you. If only the disc is worn, and the pressure plate surface is flat, you may be able to reuse it as is. Before you unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel however, check the finger assys for excessive slop. This is a common probelm on these pressure plates when they get a lot of hours on them. Carefully check the struts also (which are attached to the fingers) for excessive wear.

If you find that the pressure plate needs repair, this is best done on a special jig, which your local NH dealer SHOULD have. It's not so much disassembling that requires the jig, but rather putting it back together and adjusting everything up just right, especially if you replace linkage parts.

Also, as I said in my first post, an alignment arbor is almost a must with these tractors, because you have two discs to line up. Check to see if your dealer will rent this out to you. If not, at least get some dimensions from him so you can have one made. I honestly don't think you can do this job and get that tractor back together without it. Many single disc clutches you can, but this double one would be almost impossible the way I see it.

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Ed

11-12-2000 17:41:06




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: 2000 clutch repairs how to? in reply to Bern, 11-12-2000 17:37:33  
Thanks, Bern. I will let you know in a few days how everything went. Again, thanks.
Ed



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