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Those cylinders are pretty standard in construction, however, if you don't have a repair manual, I'd at least get a copy of the parts blowup, so you know what all is inside. There is a special spanner wrench used to loosen the end cap, however a man sized pipe wrench will usually suffice if the spanner is not readily available. Best place to do this is on the machine itself so you have a good anchor point for the opposite end of the cylinder. Matter of fact, I usually leave the barrel attached, don't even take it off. Just pull the rod and piston assy off, repack it, and shove the thing back in. It would help to loosen or remove the hoses at the cylinder to allow for easier removal and installation. Better yet, remove the hoses at the steel lines, and direct the open end of the hoses into a bucket as the rod is being pulled out, so you don't have oil flying everywhere as you do so. Not sure what the torque is on that piston nut, it could be pretty substantial, you'll likely need a good size socket and breaker bar to remove. I know on the later model Ford hoes, some of those attaching bolts are torqued to over 1400 ft/lbs. This usually requires the use of a 4 to 1 torque multiplier to remove and tighten. Now that I think about it, you really should get at least a photocopy of the page in the repair manual so you know what to torque the piston nut to. It's not something you want coming loose on you!
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