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1956 640 starts hard question

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Bob Young

10-29-2002 06:29:38




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I have had this tractor for 20+ years always the same symptoms. When is below freezing it starts on the first crank. At higher temps it has to crank a number of times before it lights up. I have noticed gas residue on the oil filter. I don't know whether to blame the carb and a flooding problem or is it sucking air someplace? Tune ups don't change the problem. It seems to start fine during use. Let it sit overnight and it starts hard the first time. Anyone have any suggestions?

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rick

10-29-2002 16:54:03




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 Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to Bob Young, 10-29-2002 06:29:38  
your problem could be a simple fix or a deeper problem.

Let's do some searching with some simple tests.

How are the plugs? are they gapped right and, are the wires new or old? Are they fouling or burning rich or lean?

How is the fuel tank and fuel valve? are they clean? and is the fuel line updated?

What is the wet and dry compression? Are you burning any oil? or are there any gasket and seal leaks on the head, covers, carburetor or manifold?

When was the last time the valves were adjusted and cleaned?

How old is the wiring? regulator and coil?

Is there any wobble to the rotor in the cap?

How is the battery? old? new?

6V or 12V system??

When was the last time you rebuilt the carburetor and checked the float adjustment and cleaned the needle valves or replaced the gasket, and looked at the choke plate or air intake plate?

Let's get some answers to these questions and let's problem solve this.

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Bob

10-30-2002 05:00:59




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 Re: Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to rick, 10-29-2002 16:54:03  
Thanks Rick for your questions. I believe most everything you mentioned has been recently covered. I had the 640 to a trackor store this past spring since I had done all the maintenance myself plus a complete overhaul about 10 years ago. I thought I could have missed something. The old guy at the tractor store tried to convince me to convert to 12V. I couldn't be swayed. I have had 6V batteries last 8 -10 years in this old Ford. The 640 has always been stored inside and I only use it about 100 - 150 hours per year. Mostly mowing. This problem doesn't seem to respond to anything I have tried. I think there may be some concern with the older wiring. Last night I placed a jumper from the battery to the coil and the 640 seemed to respond more like I think it should. Now I am not sure if the ignition switch is the problem or if the wiring is to blame. Will do some more testing this weekend. I need to let the tractor sit overnight once it starts to duplicate the problem. Can't explain that one. I still have a concern with the carb.

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good approach

10-30-2002 06:44:57




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 Re: Re: Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to Bob, 10-30-2002 05:00:59  
systematically go thru it and mimic problems like you said by letting it sit overnight.

Replacing old wires with new wires is always a good thing and easy to do. One wire at a time. Make sure the battery cables are the heavy 4 gauge, and use heavier 12 and 10 gauge wires and connections. I do it just to be sure.

A carb rebuild is always good but good to THOROUGHLY clean it and soak it in lacquer thinner for a day, all apart in pieces, and if you have a calibrated wire set, GENTLY clean out the jets or replace them. Check float adjustemnt, and all moving parts. Blow it out with a can of compressed air or 120 psi compressor after you soak it in lacquer thinner, brass brush out the bowls and covers, make sure mating halves are mating flat with no debris. blow out the sediment bowl connection to the carb and ALL ports and jets. Resoak it in lacquer thinner until there is NO residue or coloration, or fine dust and debris that settles out. Make sure you soak it in lacquer thinnner bowl so that it is completely submerged.

Readjust needle valves. Turn in all the way, and back out 1.25 turns for starters.

Double check point gap and adjust timing and idle. Also make sure the lead wire into the cap from the coil is properly inslulated.

Use the NAPA distirbutor cap and rotor with brass contacts. Best one out there.

AND last but important clean out the air filter oil cup, and soak the brillo pad material in the air cleaner in gas and beat it against a rock and clean it and keep cleaning it until it is clean.

Clean air, clean carburetor, new wires and contacts, fully charging baterry, tight manifold seals and no pin holed manifold, and clean fuel lines help. Squeeky clean.

Summary:

Fuel delivery ok?
Air delivery ok?
Ignition up to snuff? clean bright, and tight?
Recharging system checking out ok? Battery holding a charge?
Clean points and plugs? gapped right?
Timing on the mark?
Valves adjusted?
Tight seals?
Fresh oil? and filter?
Colling system checked and functioning right?

Overkill I realize but good to be thorough.

Sometime 6V systems just start to wear down and 12 is acceptable as long as it is not masking hidden problems of poor engine maintenance or performance.

When were the valves last adusted?

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Yeah I think so too

10-29-2002 10:30:54




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 Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to Bob Young, 10-29-2002 06:29:38  
I think it's a bad switch or regulator. Start with new wires and a switch as a cheap and easy fix. Sometimes condensation is problem on old connecitons and wires. bill



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Bob

10-29-2002 11:13:48




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 Re: Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to Yeah I think so too, 10-29-2002 10:30:54  
I will give it a test but the switch was replaced a few years ago and I believe there is plenty of fire. Won't hurt to give it a try.



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Larry NCKS

10-29-2002 06:40:31




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 Re: 1956 640 starts hard question in reply to Bob Young, 10-29-2002 06:29:38  
Our '63 4000 got cured of this, after years of hard starting, when the iginition switch burnt up. A new switch made all the difference in the world. It even surprised me.



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