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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
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12 volt wiring problem

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Arnold

10-15-2004 03:52:03




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When Ignition key is on position (not start)
engine cranks, but starter stays engaged. I have
to turn key to off, and kill engine. I don't know what the problem is ? Ford 800 series, converted over to 12 volt about
10 years ago. I replaced the selinoid switch, and
had the starter re-built. When I try to crank it,
the starter stays engaged ?




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john in la

10-15-2004 05:37:41




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 Re: 12 volt wiring problem in reply to Arnold, 10-15-2004 03:52:03  
The problem with trying to help someone that has a 12V conversion is the fact we do not know what starting system you have. You have to give us as many details as you can about your system.

First you said you had starter rebuilt and replaced the relay. I think this is you problem but lets go through how the systems work.

The thing that keeps throwing me is you said when key is in run not start as if you got a 3 position key like in a car and no starter button.

If I were to guess at your problem (and I often guess wrong) I would say you had a 4 wire tractor relay. The way this one works is when you turn on key power is sent to the relay small plug from the key. The power goes out the other small plug to the grounding starter plug on the trans. When you push the start button it sends the power to ground which engages the relay and makes the starter start. If you replaced this relay with one from a auto parts store there is your problem. The auto relay works by grounding through the relay case. All you need to do for this kind to start is put power to the small plug. The other small plug is to bypass a resistor in the ignition system.

So did I guess right.
Things we need to know.
Do you have a 3 or 4 wire relay?
Does your system use the starter button the trans; a starter button in the dash; or a start position in the key?
Where did you get your new relay from?
Did this problem start when you replaced the relay and had starter rebuilt?

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Arnold

10-15-2004 07:54:00




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 Re: 12 volt wiring problem in reply to john in la, 10-15-2004 05:37:41  
I have a 4-wire relay ( small left post to ignition switch, small right post to coil resister, big right post to + bat. post, big left post to starter. ) starter button was diconnected, when it was converted to 12 volt. It has a 3 position key switch. (acc., off, on, start )
I got the relay from a napa auto parts.
I had the same problem last summer. not sure how I fixed it. I think I hot wired it at the key switch. When I wired back right it worked fine till now. ?????

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john in la

10-15-2004 12:34:27




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 Re: 12 volt wiring problem in reply to Arnold, 10-15-2004 07:54:00  
OK so you have a relay and a key switch out of a car.
I read it as it cranks when in run position but not in off position..... ..
Based on what you said I would try this.
1) Take the small wire from the key off the relay. Turn key to run. If it tries to crank go to 2. If it does not crank check for power in this small wire. If it has power with key in run position go to 3. If it has no power check to see if it has power with key in start position and go to 4.
2) If it tries to crank take the other small wire off the relay. If it still tries to crank change the position of your large wires. I usually wire my large wires the other way but do not think it makes a difference but you can check this. If it stops trying to crank when you remove the second small wire you have the two small wires hooked up backwards.
3)Your key is bad or you have the wires hook to your key wrong. This wire should only have power in the key start position.
4) If it has power only with key in the start position but does not crank with first small wire removed you have other problems. Post your findings and we will go from there.

Let us know what you come up with.

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Rod F.

10-15-2004 04:59:14




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 Re: 12 volt wiring problem in reply to Arnold, 10-15-2004 03:52:03  
That could be a couple of things. If I understand you correctly, the engine only spins over when the key is on, not when the key is off? If this is the case, then I would suspect a bad starter button, which is allowing a constant connection. To test, either get a multimeter and check it out, or just try pulling the signal wire off the starter relay when it acts up. If it stops, then I bet the button is the problem. If you have to remove the battery cable to stop the starter, then it could be a bad relay, or the starter is for some reason staying engaged or locked to the ring gear. Not sure how you have this wired, just some idle thoughts.

Rod

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