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12 volt system

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Chris

05-29-2001 23:51:13




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I have an 860 which has been converted to 12V. I put new holegen lights in the front and one on the rear. I was using them the other night and they just quit. The fuse is ok. The part where the wires enter and then exit(by the spark plugs) going to the lights looks like it got hot. It is discolored. What is this and how can this be avoided? Is this some sort of relay?




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Jerry D in NC

05-30-2001 10:36:21




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 Re: 12 volt system in reply to Chris, 05-29-2001 23:51:13  
Did the lights work again after sitting off for awhile. If so then you have one of the thermistor type of power switch, meaning, it fuses the current load with a device that warms up depending on how much current is being drawn. Too much current and the switch gets hot and opens, the lights go off until it cools down and makes contact again. Did you add the light in the back extra? If the light switch did not have three lights going through it before then the extra current required to run the third light my have caused the problem. May be all wrong but I have had this happen to me on other Fords

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TomG

05-30-2001 04:25:31




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 Re: 12 volt system in reply to Chris, 05-29-2001 23:51:13  
I don't know if this was new lights in an old circuit that worked fine for a long time, or if it's a new installation. Also don't know how close the wiring is to spark plug lines or the exhaust manifold. I'd avoid running wiring near high voltage spark lines or hot engine parts. I also don't know if the fuse is ahead or behind the discoloured wiring. Full of 'don't knows' I guess.

If it's electrical issue, inadequate wire gauge combined with too heavy a fuse could do it. Two 55W lights draw about 8.3A @ 12V. I installed mine running directly from the battery through an in-line 10A fuse and using heavy automotive wire (14 or 16 gauge) and grounded through the ROPS/canopy.

Yours may be wired as a branch circuit off from a general accessory circuit on the tractor. I wouldn't expect a relay in such a place, but you never know. There is a chance that the circuit goes through another fuse earlier in the circuit I guess.

A VOM would be handy to track the problem down. The question is whether the lights are bad or whether they're not getting voltage or have lost a ground. With the fuse removed and switch on, you should be able to measure a low resistance from the load side of the fuse to ground. If there's continuity through the lights, then there's probably an open circuit and they're not getting voltage. The question is where is the break. You about have to check for voltage with a VOM at various points back through the wiring, and you'll hit voltage somewhere before the battery terminal. The switch is a good candidate unless switches are built into the lights. You may have to check wire colour codes and trace wiring harnesses to find the same wire at the other end.

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Dan

06-01-2001 10:54:19




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 Re: Re: 12 volt system in reply to TomG, 05-30-2001 04:25:31  
If no voltage at lights, the dicolored wire that you see may be "burnt-out / blown" fusible link piece of wire that will need to be cut-out of the circuit and replaced with another.



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