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3pt hitch Hydraulics

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plym

07-03-2001 03:57:09




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Hey All -
Recently acquired a '56 Ford 640. Been cleanin' it up and trying to get everything to work. Couldn't get the 3ph hydraulics to lift or release until I overfilled the reservoir. Then everything started working fine. PTO is engaged and pump has plenty of prime (fluid looks pretty black, though). When I drain it back down to where it should be (according to dip stick), nothing moves...
Any ideas ?
Would it hurt to just keep it overfilled ?

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ZANE

07-03-2001 17:41:32




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 Re: 3pt hitch Hydraulics in reply to plym, 07-03-2001 03:57:09  
I would first try bleeding the pump by removing the front pipe plug with the allen head hole in it. Start the tractor and let it idle as slow as possible and when all the bubbles are gone stop the tractor and put the plug back in. You will loose about a half cup usually so put something under the pump to catch the oil.
If it won't work then you must go into the lift and take out the unloading valve and clean it up and replace the O ring with the Ford O ring made specifically for the unloading valve. The old part # was NCA 836B. Don't use a substitute or you will be sorry.
The unloading valve is covered by a plate at the front of the control valve housing just above the control valve. Their is a plug over the valve that must be pulled by inserting a bolt with fine threads into the plug and prying it out with two bars. The valve can then be pushed out with a punch of the appropriate size. Don't strike it with a hammer. The O ring will be on the unloading valve that needs to be replaced.
If you will look around on the other reference pages of the N board etc you can probably find some good views of the lift to give you some idea of what you will be looking at.
When taking the lift control housing off the tractor remove only the bolts that are around the ;outside edge of the housing and do not remove any of the bolt that are inside this circle of bolts. If you encounter a bolt that has fine threads on it put it back where you took it out. The fine bolts hold the cylinder to the cover housing.
Good luck.

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ZANE

07-03-2001 17:40:42




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 Re: 3pt hitch Hydraulics in reply to plym, 07-03-2001 03:57:09  
I would first try bleeding the pump by removing the front pipe plug with the allen head hole in it. Start the tractor and let it idle as slow as possible and when all the bubbles are gone stop the tractor and put the plug back in. You will loose about a half cup usually so put something under the pump to catch the oil.
If it won't work then you must go into the lift and take out the unloading valve and clean it up and replace the O ring with the Ford O ring made specifically for the unloading valve. The old part # was NCA 836B. Don't use a substitute or you will be sorry.
The unloading valve is covered by a plate at the front of the control valve housing just above the control valve. Their is a plug over the valve that must be pulled by inserting a bolt with fine threads into the plug and prying it out with two bars. The valve can then be pushed out with a punch of the appropriate size. Don't strike it with a hammer. The O ring will be on the unloading valve that needs to be replaced.
If you will look around on the other reference pages of the N board etc you can probably find some good views of the lift to give you some idea of what you will be looking at.
When taking the lift control housing off the tractor remove only the bolts that are around the ;outside edge of the housing and do not remove any of the bolt that are inside this circle of bolts. If you encounter a bolt that has fine threads on it put it back where you took it out. The fine bolts hold the cylinder to the cover housing.
Good luck.

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plym

07-10-2001 04:37:14




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 Re: Re: 3pt hitch Hydraulics in reply to ZANE, 07-03-2001 17:40:42  
Hi Zane ~

Thanks for the information. Tried bleeding the pump (first) as suggested. Let her idle for a bit over an hour with hex bolt removed. Lost over 3/4 gallon of fluid and she was still blowing air (and fluid) at the same rate that it started...

Do you think the pump could be sucking air from somewhere? Is it normal for it to take this long to bleed the pump?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks Again.

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