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Ford 6610 stabilizer bars

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Matt Simpson

09-09-2005 16:03:18




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I just bought a Ford 6610, and I want to put a Woods 6-foot rotary mower (generic bush hog) on the 3-point hitch. To keep it from swaying back and forth, I thought I would need stabilizer bars.

The tractor has a ROPS roll bar/canopy. The brackets that hold the roll bar to the axle have pins that look like they are for stabilizers. The lift arms have pins slightly in front of the implement attachment ends that I thought were for stabilizers.

I ordered stabilizer bars from the dealer, not knowing exactly what I was going to get. What I got (for $200) are a pair of flat bars, with two holes of different sizes at one end, and the other end slightly offset with a single smaller hole.

I thought the offset end would be the one to attach to the lift arm, but that hole is too small for the pin that I thought was a stabilizer pin. Also, the bars are too long to reach from the brackets on the axle to the pin on the lift arm, and too short to reach from the axle to the mower attachment pin.

Did I get the wrong parts, or am I just clueless about how to attach them

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RodinNS

09-10-2005 10:59:04




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 16:03:18  
JHEnt described the proper..... er nooo.. the one originally equipped when your tractor was new. I'll tell you something else. They didn't come with your tractor because the original owner probably sent them on a scow to China not long after after he got the tractor. Either that, or they're collecting dust in some dark forgotten corner of a garage somewhere, like the 2 or 3 sets I have. They were used once, determined to be miserable, and heaved. If you want stabilizers, sit down with the parts man, and look for the SQUARE tubular telescopic stabilizers that lock with a pin. The tubing is drilled in multiple locations to allow for many different locking positions, and some semi floating positions. These were not available until mabey the later 10 series, or certainly the 40 series. Actually, I'm pretty sure the 40 series are the ones you would want. The round telescopic variety with the turnbuckles like Hurst described are not all that novel either. The rods tend to seize up if not used much, they lack travel, and they're still a pain to adjust. The square ones are probably a bit pricey, but by far the best deal if you do much hitching/unhitching on the 3 point. The 40 series (6640) stabilizer will fit your tractor just fine. The arm geometry is exactly the same. The parts breakdown on the computer will show you how they're mounted. Best of luck.

Rod

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Hurst

09-10-2005 13:52:48




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to RodinNS, 09-10-2005 10:59:04  
You guessed right on the money, the arms won't turn at all. We just use the pin and slide the arms in and out and set the position that way. Need to find time to take them off and get them loose with a big pipe wrench. I bet that one could make some telescoping stablizer bars out of cat. 1 or 2 top links (not sure the exact diameter of the pin). That would probably be less than ford bars if it will work. Good luck.

Hurst

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RodinNS

09-10-2005 15:39:05




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Hurst, 09-10-2005 13:52:48  
I had a set of those devils on my TS90. They fell apart and got lost. I didn't go looking for them. I got the square stabs'. They drop right in place, and as I recall, they aren't really much more money than the other junk. I'm much happier with these ones.

Rod



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Hurst

09-10-2005 16:04:21




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to RodinNS, 09-10-2005 15:39:05  
I love the ones on our TN65 and really just the bars on the 7610 aren't too bad as long as it is the right width for the equipment. I will have to see what I can do with the 6610. It is a 91 model, so probably one of the first years to have the telescoping bars???. They sure are hard to work with at times. How do you like the TS 90? The new tractors as good as teh old fords?

Hurst



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RodinNS

09-11-2005 09:50:02




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Hurst, 09-10-2005 16:04:21  
The TS isn't a bad tractor in most ways. The engines are a little better on fuel than the old ones. They can lug a little better too. I don't like the oil consumption. I've never seen an old Ford that burnt oil. The rear seals still leak too. Initally, I hated the new Fiat based front axle. It doesn't oscillate as much as the old ZF units, and I still think that front tie rod is going to cost someday. But so far, it hasn't been a problem, and works good. The tractor doesn't have a parking brake to speak of either. It does, but it's cable operated, and the writing was on the wall for that after the first week we had the tractor. I'm still not sure what was gained by going to hydraulic brakes, and thus necessating this cable operated ....unit. The old mechanical brakes worked just as good, and the parking brake was built in. Mine is also a 12x12 tranny. It's a decent tranny. It shifts so so. The external forks and side loader aren't tops in my mind. It will lock in low range if I'm not careful shifting. It's not bad to unlock, just the principle of it. I like it for field work, but it isn't for roading. It just doesn't have the right combo of gears, and I find I have to change range too much when hauling heavy, and that isn't much fun. It's a rather convoluted sequence that takes too much time, and if you miss, you're going backwards fast. But, for baleing and mowing, I like the transmission. It's fairly flexible for light field work.
The hydraulics are of the same bane as the 10 series, except the pumps were changed around, and a boost cylinder added to the 3 point. It lifts a lot more, but at the expense of being so slow that I don't care to use the tractor for 3-point work. If I was buying another, I would look hard at a 24x24 tranny to see how it shifted with the wet clutch, because I would certainly want to go with the CCLS hydraulic system, which is only available on the 24x24 and 16x16 tractors. Personally, I think NH spent too much time "packaging" features on these tractors rather than simply building a base, and then letting the buyer choose the options. I would much rather a 24x24 with a dry clutch and CCLS, but I'm not allowed such things. The Case JXU ( I think) is the same tractor, which comes closer in specs to what I want. It's not that they can't or don't build the components that I want..... they just won't package them the way I want. They are far too concerned with maintaining a price differential between features.
Ergonomically, it's a nice tractor to operate. Visibility on the flat deck is good. It's fairly comforterable. It's just little things like the devil's stabilizers, the bad parking brake and the slow 3-point that spoil that tractor.
To sum up, I think the TS will end up being one of the most durable tractors ever built by Ford/NewHolland over the long haul, closely following the 4000 and 5000. It's got the beef where it counts, and can certainly stand up to heavy hard work. But, I think it's lost some of the features and flexibility that the 10 series had. In my mind, the TS is just a tractor; it will never achieve the reverence that I have for the 7710. Never.

Rod

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JHEnt

09-09-2005 19:59:03




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 wrong bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 16:03:18  
You have bars for a 2000-4610SU tractor. They might also fit a regular 4610. The bar for a 5610, 6610, 76-7710 should have 2 holes on one end and a single hole on the other. All holes should be the same side. The end with the single hole will have a slight bend to one side and the opposite end with the double holes will bend towards the other direction. This angle will allow the bar to fit straight on the axel pin and the arm pin without binding. The double hole end goes to the axel pin and is there to allow 2 different width settings for each arm. There should not be any offset to the bar ends only a single bend at each end.

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Matt Simpson

09-09-2005 16:41:23




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 16:03:18  
I just realized that I have a digital camera and can provide pictures better than my half-assed description

LinkLink
lift>Link arm Link
bracket>Link on axle

Link bar resting on attachment(?) pins

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sotxbill

09-09-2005 16:46:53




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 16:41:23  
wrong bars... but again.. for my 6610 thoses are wrong... those are for going all the way out to the back pin where the implement attaches.. you need the flat bars that are shorter and still have two holes on one end... again.. if your bottom link arms are like mine... Bill



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Hurst

09-10-2005 10:29:06




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to sotxbill, 09-09-2005 16:46:53  
We have a 6610 with teloscoping stablizer bars (they screw in and out) and a 7610 with the straight bars. On the end that bolts to the axle housing, there are THREE holes. They line up in a triangle at the end. Then on the other end there is a big cat 2 sized hole. If I was home, I could take a picture of them. The 7610 has the chains on the inside and then these bars on the outside. It also has the adjustable arms (that slide in and out for hook up). I would check with a srap yard to find these. I am sure that somewhere will have a set off a used tractor. You could also try Ebay, never know what all turns up there. Good luck!

Hurst

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murn-ga

09-09-2005 16:30:32




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 16:03:18  
Matt, it seams that you have the right stay bars but the wrong lift arms. The 6610 was very poplar for utility companys clearing the lines and during trade in, the dealer might have put any model lift arm on the tractor. The early 5000 arm was about 2 inches shorter. Still does not explain the smaller hole. Maybe the pin is not orginal.The orginal pin had a sholder to fit the lift arm and a larger diameter for the bar.The dual hole is for cat I or II.The offset does go on the bar.

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Matt Simpson

09-09-2005 17:09:55




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to murn-ga, 09-09-2005 16:30:32  
OK ... the end with a single hole appears to be a cat 1 size. Are you saying that end is supposed to go on the lift arm? The pin on the lift arm is as you describe, the diameter going through the lift arm is smaller than the end to attach the bar. The attachment end appears to be a cat 2 .. too big for the single hole at one end, but fits the bigger hole at the other end which seems to be cat 2.

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murn-ga

09-09-2005 17:37:02




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 17:09:55  
OK Matt, forget my orginal post. I now think that they sold you the the links for solid lift arms and not for the flex links that you have. This would make them about 3" to long and also a cat 1 on the offset end. Sorry for the error.



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Matt Simpson

09-09-2005 20:36:13




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to murn-ga, 09-09-2005 17:37:02  
What"s a flex link? Does that refer to the ends of the lift arms that have a catch that releases to let the ends slide out? What"s the purpose of that? Is it just to make hitching up easier? The ends only lock in one position (all the way in), so I don"t think I"d want to run with them any other way. It looks like maybe I could slide them out to hook up and then back up to lock them in. Is that what they"re for? Or is there some reason I"d actually want to run with the ends free to slide in and out (which would stop the first time they slid all the way in, so I guess the answer is no).

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kyhayman

09-09-2005 22:57:09




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 Re: Ford 6610 stabilizer bars in reply to Matt Simpson, 09-09-2005 20:36:13  
Ends are made that way to make hook up to immobile impliments easier. Back up, hook up, then back to lock in place, ready to roll. I never cared for Ford's stabilizer bars. Really like the outter adjustable sway chains better, hook up and tighten them up. Also, Tisco prices both sides for about $100.



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