Alternator Conversion

Is there a way to resolve this problem? You do not have to do this with your car. A car idle's about 800RPM and will charge why won't a tractor? Is the pully size that much different? Thanks, Bob.

You have a 3 wire alternator but they tell you to wire it with one wire. Not using the #1 or #2 terminal makes it simple for the electrical challenged and allows them to say how easy their system is to wire.
Problem is it does not work as you have found out.
A simple fix if they want to advertise 1 wire installation is to sell the kit with a more expensive marine alternator.

Now back to your fix..... ....
Yes if you would rather use the car key switch you will still use your starter button with neutral safety. The car key switch allows the coil wire and alternator wire to be hooked at different places isolating them with the key off but connecting them with the key on.

Wire it like this..... ..... ..... ..

Got one more question: I have a Case 630 that uses the Gen/Alt to drive the proofmeter (like some of the 2-3-4000), can a guy buy that drive gear seperatly and where. Thanks again for your help. bob.

To put it bluntly..... ..... ...
You bought a alternator conversion kit thinking it could be wired with one wire to the alternator.
Problem is they sold you a 3 wire car alternator (because it is cheaper) instead of the 1 wire marine alternator. To compensate they tell you to rev tractor to get it to charge.

So lets fix the problem by wiring it like a car.

Get a roll of 12 gauge wire; a one way diode from radio shack; and some wire ends; and a 2 prong plug for the side of the alternator from Auto Zone.

Plug in your 2 prong plug on the alternator.
Connect the #2 or S wire to the battery wire on back of the alternator. (this will keep it from over charging)
Connect the #1 or F wire to the key (hot when on). Install the diode in this wire with the cathode end toward the alternator. (This is the marked end of the diode.)

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