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960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES!

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Brad_bb

08-16-2006 12:35:31




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Here"s a few update pictures. I finally started shooting red. Saturday I finished painting the gray parts - The front wheels came out magnificent! All the filling and sanding paid off, but unfortuneately I forgot to take a pic of them, doh! Next week. I still need to paint the main differential front end supports and the front steering end, which will happen this coming weekend. I also added the PAINT CODES in PPG DCC single stage acrylic urethane that I used for this tractor. PPG already had the correct Vermillion red in their computer system. They didn"t have the gray though. So I bought a quart of the paint from this website. I didn"t care for it, I thought it was too dark compared to some original paint I found on two of our tractors on surfaces taht hadn"t seen sunlight. So the local New Holland dealership gave me the phone number for a guy in the Peoria, IL area who is big into Ford restoration. I called him and he hooked me up with a paint that Napa sells that he says is pretty darn close if not right on. I ordered a quart of that, then sprayed out a sample on a swatch card (I liked it) and then took it to the ppg dealer where they used the profit machine (spectrum analyzer) to color match it in PPG DCC arylic urethane. After painting the fender I then showed it to the local expert (my dad) and he agreed that the color looked right. I really like PPG"s acrylic urethane for it"s color holdout (doesn"t fade), and resistance to chemicals. It holds up well too and has a superb finish on properly prepared surfaces. It out performs any enamels I have tried. I"ve used DCC in automotive restorations for a long time (on all parts except the outer sheetmetal - that gets base/clear acrylic urethane). I hope I can have this tractor back together and running in 2 or 3 more weekends.

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GlenIdaho

08-17-2006 17:53:16




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 Re: 960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES! in reply to Brad_bb, 08-16-2006 12:35:31  
Hi Brad; Your tractor parts look great. If you have a few seconds I have a few painting questions as I am about to paint my 57 850.

For background the only thing that was not taken apart was the transmission from the differential housing. I have now reassembled the rear axles and engine to transmission.

My question has to do with the order of painting and assembly of parts. Paint first or assemble first, or combination of both.

I notice that you are painting the parts individually. My plan was to primer all the parts, assemble all but the sheetmetal and put on the top coat. Is it better to paint them all and then assemble?

What about all the nuts and bolts used in assembly? Do you go back as spot paint those?

Obviously I'm not a painter so I don't know the proper sequences best used.

For info, I am using Omni epoxy primer and Omni acrylic urethane. The fellow at the paint shop said they are made by PPG and are basically the same paint. Any experience with Omni?

Thanks, Glen

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Brad_bb

08-18-2006 09:17:13




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 Re: 960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES! in reply to GlenIdaho, 08-17-2006 17:53:16  
Hi Glen, You have to be careful as there is a lot of wrong information out there. 9 out of 10 tractors have been repainted during their life and most of those are not exactly correct. You have to consider what made sense to do for the factory. It was an assembly line afer all. I deal with that stuff in my job too, so I can relate to how the engineers set up to do assembly. Let"s start with the sheetmetal. They are a different color than the rest of the frame/chassis, so obviously they were painted separately as individual parts. The hardware that holds them to frame/chassis should be plated, not painted. Many people these days are painting that hardware. The factory would definitely not paint the hardware -screws, nuts and bolts after the sheetmetal was installed. That would make a mess and be very tedious. Not practical. They would not paint the hardware individually before assembly either. It would be terribly costly and tedious, and if they did, the paint could often be damaged during assembly. Therefore, that sheetmetal hardware is plated and not painted. You often can"t tell these days because someone has painted over them or the plaitng is gone and only rust remians. The plating is sacrificial so that the plating corrodes before the base metal. Now let"s consider all odds and ends parts. You have to think like the engineer and what makes sense. What if assembled won"t interfere with painting? Very little. Basically the rear differential and transmission were mated along with their respective covers and plugs. The steering box was installed as well as the hydraulic top end probably with the lift arms too. None of the 3pt stuff was on yet. Thsi was painted as a sub assembly. They engine may or may not have been installed. The frame rails that run along side the engine were not on. If they were on, they would interfere with painting the engine. If the engine were not installed, the frame rails would not be on becuase you have to remove at least one to get the engine in. They would not have wanted to intall something like that and then have to remove it later. So the differential/transmission would have had hardware that was painted over. They many parts that were installed after that were painted separate -shift lever, foot rests, brackets etc. Anything that was painted separate wold have plated hardware to install it and not painted. As I said, many people don"t understand this and are stuck in thinking that it"s all painted at once. It just doesn"t make sense from an assembly line point of view. By the way, I have all my plating done at www.detialplating.com Back in the early days, the plating done was silver cadmium. Very few platers for cadmium still do it because how bad it is environmentally and the regulations that go along with it. Zinc became popular and the replacement for Cad by the mid sixties. Silver Zinc can be a little brighter than Cad. Cad could vary from very dull almost whitish to a bright silver. Zinc a good alternative and looks very good. The correct callout is Silver Zinc with Clear Chromate finish. Silver zinc can be nearly pure silver incolor to light shades of blue or pink. Platers can adjust to make parts more blue or pink. Silver is what we need for restorations though. Detail plating"s parts come back with a good bright silver. One last note, Starters and generators are supposed to be black on most Ford tractors like my 55 960. Many people hold the misconception that they should be red.
Brad_bb

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GlenIdaho

08-19-2006 04:59:18




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 Re: 960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES! in reply to Brad_bb, 08-18-2006 09:17:13  
Brad; Thanks for the detailed reply. Once you think about it in an assemblyline perspective, it makes sense. Thanks for the link. I'll have to collect all the nuts and bolts to see if it would be more feasible to just replace them or have them plated.

Thanks again, looking forward to seeing your finished tractor.


Glen



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Brad_bb

08-19-2006 08:28:16




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 Re: 960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES! in reply to GlenIdaho, 08-19-2006 04:59:18  
I would definitely recommend replating if the parts aren't pitted too badly. The reason is that most of the hardware with exception of a few pieces are specialty hardware. It's also much nicer to use original bolts with the correct headmarkings. Incorrect headmarkings will stand out like a sore thumb. The other problem is that typical hardware store hardware is foreign made grade 2. For a tractor like this hardware was typically automotive grade 5. New Holland has some pieces of hardware still available, but much isn't, and in some cases it might be cheaper to replate original hardware. Just make sure to prep your hardware properly for the plater. I take my hardware to an electrolytic alkaline chemical stripper OR I bead blast the part. I remove all dirt, oil and rust, bag the hardware up in zipper ziplock gallon bags and box and ship them off to the plater. If you have hardware that is pitted and needs to look like new again, you can have the parts soldered, buffed, copper plated, buffed first just like you do with chrome, but it will cost proportionally of course.

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Brad_bb

08-16-2006 12:39:03




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 Re: 960 Resto update Aug 13 plus PAINT CODES! in reply to Brad_bb, 08-16-2006 12:35:31  
Not sure why the link didn"t show up in my original post...Here it is.



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