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Help removing 960 lift arms

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Brad_bb

09-19-2006 07:30:30

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Looking for a little help here. I need to remove lift arms from the hydraulic cover on my 55 960. I removed the french locks(bent over tabs), and the two bolts on each arm and removed them and their washers. I see that they are on a spined shaft. There is a bunch of rust on there though. I"ve tried some liquid wrench and a hammer and no luck on either arm. It looks like a need a puller -like a pitman arm puller. The pitman arm puller I have for cars is too small. The diameter that I have to stradle(space between jaws) is 2.875. There is only a small lip so I think a 3 arm puller will not work. I think it needs to be a fixed two arm pitman type puller. What has anyone else used to pull the arms? Any recommendations? Thanks, Brad_bb

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Brad_bb

09-21-2006 15:07:53

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I will succeed in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

I will get these arms off. I will modify a puller if I have to and I will not damage the cover. If I have to machine two small slots in the arms for a puller to grip I will, but hopefully I won"t have to with the right puller.

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GlenIdaho

09-19-2006 21:03:03

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

Brad; I had to take mine off my 850 to replace the bushings. After all other attempts I resorted to heat and was able to pound it off with a 3 lb sledge. I discovered that some of the splines on the rock shaft were gone too. I picked up and good used shaft from Wengers and took it to a machinist who even though he had a press had to resort to heat and hammer. You might call your local NH shop and see what it would cost for them to do it. It may be worth the money.

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alg

09-19-2006 12:22:12

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

Brad, why do you want to remove them.?

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Brad_bb

09-20-2006 08:01:08

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to alg, 09-19-2006 12:22:12

Why? There was condensation inside the cover that formed quite a bit of flakey rust. I need to remove the arms and remove the shaft to get the center part out that is on the shaft. I then need to bead blast it and seal it in epoxy or glyptal to prevent rust again. I also need to remove the rust from the underside of the cover and from the linkages and springs near the are where the rust/condensation was occuring. If I leave the rust, it will just continue and the springs in the rear may break eventually. Additionally I don"t want the rust particles sucked into the hydraulic passages where it could damage bores etc. This is a restoration and everything needs to be freed up, cleaned, sealed and lubed.

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dan hill

09-21-2006 01:48:47

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-20-2006 08:01:08

You may break the lift cover trying to pull the arms off.There is no place to grip the arms with a puller.A hydraulic press puts all the strain on the lift casting.These lift arms could have been designed better.

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Lumpy

09-19-2006 10:17:17

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

Did you try heating it? I hate to say this, but the last one I needed to get off, came off by sawing a groove and splitting it with a chisel.

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Brad_bb

09-19-2006 08:46:15

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

Problem is that I"m pretty sure a chisel would deform either the arm or housing side and I"d like to avoid that. I"m sort of focusing on a puller if I can find an appropriate one. I just started looking on the OTC site. I"m not sure what other brands of pullers are out there besides OTC.

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dan hill

09-25-2006 01:36:34

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 08:46:15

There is no place for a puller to grip the arm.

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awhtx

09-19-2006 08:41:12

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Re: Help removing 960 lift arms in reply to Brad_bb, 09-19-2006 07:30:30

I doubt that you'll find a pickle fork (tie rod/ball joint separator) with a gap wide enough to fit over the rockshaft. I'd soak it real good with PB Blaster then drive a small cold chisel into the gap between the lift arm and the housing. Keep working the chisel all the way around the gap rather than trying to drive it in in one location.

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