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Well, I think that your idea of warming the tractor up, then dropping the pan may have merit. If you can do that fast while the coolant is still pressurized. (Say, does that tractor have a low pressure cap or a 14 psi cap?) For test purposes, a high pressure cap may help, or make up a compressed air fitting and put the system to 18-20 psi. Any more and the hoses will pop. When you say you warmed the sleeves, was that hitting them with a touch from a propane torch? If so, you sealed them. *huh* ? The sleeve and block expand at the same rate. Heating the sleeve from the inside, heats the sleeve first. It expands from the heat as the block is still cold and smaller and makes a tight seal. "Mystery" leaks on wet sleeved blocks can be from a bad o-ring on the sleeve. Check close around the bottom of the cylinders. Cracked head is usually near the exhaust valves, but those leak into the combustion chamber and are easy to find. Super clean chamber. Are any head bolts into the coolant? Random thought. See if your machine shop can get you some UV dye. Put it in the coolant, run till it's hot, dump the pan and then inspect the crank case with a UV light and see if you can find the leak. Is the water pump leaking ? Bolts all tight and correct length in the right places? Sorry if this is dis-jointed. I have a cold coming on and the head is starting to fill with cotton ... jb
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