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Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
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PTO Drive shaft broke!

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DiscGolfer

05-29-2007 06:00:57




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Out bush hogging and noticed it wasn't cutting anymore. The PTO drive shaft had broken. It is made from tubular steel that is triangular in shape, not square. Would welding be strong enough to hold it? The piece that broke is the outside sleeve that connects from the PTO output on the tractor, not the piece that connects to the gearbox on the bush hog.

If I have to get a new one, what is the best thing - new or used? And what is a reasonable price? Middle Tennessee.

Thanks.

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bjr

05-30-2007 05:58:16




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 Get a new Tube in reply to DiscGolfer, 05-29-2007 06:00:57  
Agri-Supply was the least expensive when I was shopping for a drive line for my tiller. They had every thing. Most of the my local suppliers never heard of triangle driveline little alone metric yokes and crosses. You may find just buying a whole new driveline is the fastest and cheapest in the long run and then keep old parts for spares. bjr



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Fighting suburbia in NC

05-29-2007 09:11:09




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 Big truck driveline shop in reply to DiscGolfer, 05-29-2007 06:00:57  
Find a local driveline shop and have them weld it - they should have the expertise to do so and to keep it aligned properly in the process.

I had a Howard Rotavator PTO shaft rebuilt with all new tubing for $100 several years ago. Howard dealer wanted $400 for just the tractor side of shaft.



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RodInNS

05-29-2007 09:04:42




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to DiscGolfer, 05-29-2007 06:00:57  
I doubt you'll weld that. Where it's the outer you could try it, and make sure the weld doesn't penetrate to the point where it stops the shaft from scoping.... but when you do that you lose a lot of weld area. Build it up with several beads on the outside..

But what's going to happen is the tube will distort and then the inner won't slide in.
For what it's worth, I never waste my time on that. Replace it with new. It's probably 10-15 bucks a foot. Even if it's 30 a foot. You need probably 2 feet? Some of those are welded on to the yolk and some are pinned into the yolk. If it's welded, cut the weld with a grinder and do not mark the yolk. Keep the butting surface true, and when you get the old tube off you'll likely find a pilot on the yolk to center the tube. Also be careful to mark the yolk as to the EXACT orientation of the tube to the yolk so that you keep the shaft properly phased.

For what it's worth.... those shafts usually twist on me rather than break, so I don't need to worry about welding.

Rod

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Fordfarmer

05-29-2007 06:15:34




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to DiscGolfer, 05-29-2007 06:00:57  
A good weld will hold- that's what holds the tube to the u-joints. Just make sure it doesn't interfere with the shaft's ability to telescope.



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soundguy

05-29-2007 13:32:41




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to Fordfarmer, 05-29-2007 06:15:34  
True.. but it probably isn't a but weld.. there is likely a short sleave slid in and welded ( pinned on some.. )

Soundguy



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RodInNS

05-29-2007 14:17:31




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to soundguy, 05-29-2007 13:32:41  
No, actually they are just plain simple butt welded. The sit on a short round pilot... or at least the Bondolin & Pavesi shafts do. I've had a few of them apart. The other option is that the yolks are fitted over the tube, and the tube is retained by a spring(roll) pin. As far as I'm concerned though, the only reason to even try welding a tube is for a weekend repair when you're stuck. Otherwise, just replace the tube. It's cheaper than paying to have it welded, and it will fail again if it works at all.

Rod

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souNdguy

05-30-2007 04:26:03




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to RodInNS, 05-29-2007 14:17:31  
Looking at most of my drive shafts that I could get to.. all of them had the yoke slid over the shaft.. 2 were then welded, and 2 were pinned. In all 4 cases, the yoke and shaft overlapped 1-2 inches. None of mine had the simple dup weld.. however none were the brand you mentioned either.

In any case.. that pilot actually should make a stronger weld than a but weld.. depending on how much penetration they got.. and if they took advantage of welding the blind side.

I imagine p[to category makes a big difference on the manufacturing technique too. Something made for light to medium loads is probably built different than one expecting heavy or severe loads.

Soundguy

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RodInNS

05-30-2007 05:46:12




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to souNdguy, 05-30-2007 04:26:03  
I'm dealing mostly with class 5 and class 6 powershafts.... so simply put, they're taking about as much power as you dare through a 540 PTO... pushing 100 hp. There are as many different styles as there are shafts. Some are on a pilot. Some are fitted into the yolk. All the old square shaft's I've seen were welded, and butt welded at that. Some of the Bondolini's are fitted into the yolk and pinned. Some are butted and welded. To be honest, I've never had a bit of trouble with either system, and I've twisted the Bondo's their full length under power, and wore them so loose they'd nearly spin inside each other.... but never broke a weld of theirs or my own.
The WalterSchied tear drop shaft is always fitted into the yolk the best that I can recall.
I prefer the Bondolini most ot the time. It's strong and easy to fix when it does break.

Rod

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souNdguy

05-30-2007 06:08:14




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 Re: PTO Drive shaft broke! in reply to RodInNS, 05-30-2007 05:46:12  
Yep.. those are some big shafts no doubt.

I've also never had a yoke-to-shaft come apart either.. and as you say.. I've had some shafts with a slight twist in them run for years ( one still running )

Soundguy



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