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Put it this way.... assuming that the tractor has one of the OEM thermostats, the range of opening temperatures was anywhere from 168 to 188. I often run the 180 or 188 in mine, and I find they're just absolute dogs that won't pull if you try running the 168. I like the 188's best, and keep the rad clean. If it's clean they'll stay cool while working hard in 100+ degree weather. Just make sure you keep them clean. With the lower temp stat you have a longer period of time for the heat to build since you start dissapating heat sooner. But, I've chopped silage in 100 degree heat with a 188 stat in my 7710 which is turned up close to 20 %, and she will stay cool. ON the pump seal.... Yes, you can likely do that yourself. I've never changed the seal on one because the only pumps I've dealt with needed rebuilding, so I just sent them away.... but the seal doesn't look to hard, and I think you MIGHT get that from NewHolland. That's a big might. They generally want that stuff sent to a pump shop these days.
To make a long story short, to remove the pump, strip the lines off, NOTE where the scribe line is on the pump relative to the index marks on the engine front adapter plate, then get the small front timing cover off in front of the pump. You should see 3 little bolts in the center of the drive gear. Remove them. Then remove the 3 bolts holding the pump to the engine and pull the pump. Leave the gear in place, don't turn anything or move anything, and you'll be fine. Since you don't touch the timing, all you do to reinstall is put the pump back to it's original marks on the adapter plate and bolt everything back in place. Tickity boo.... Rod
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