wiring harness

If the 12v conversion was done with a Delco 10si alternator (most are) this wiring diagram will work.

Phil, here is John's 1 wire diagram.

2) Jim showed you a light switch

3) That is a insulated terminal block. It is just a place to hook wires together. You will need a block with 2 wire connecting spots.

4) The B post will be hooked to one side of the terminal block and The I will be hooked to the other side. S is not used.

Since I really think you DO NOT have a true 1 wire alternator even if some one told you it was and sold you it under that assumption; I would hook the small jumper wire on the back of the alternator from post 2/S to the battery post. (see the first drawing)

Now when you have to rev the motor all the way up to get the alternator to charge and what to make it work better come back and I can tell you how to add the 3rd wire to the alternator.

If I had a tractor I wanted to convert to 12v; was not concerned about doing it 100% correct; just wanted it to charge. This fact is enforced by the torn out wires from previous owner.

Would I buy a alternator at AutoZone for $23.99 or would I buy a 1 wire alternator for $89.99??
Now let me try and explain that since I know I have lost you.

GM made these alternators to use in their trucks and cars. All of these had a 3 wire system with a dash idiot light. They also made a marine version that only uses 1 wire and cost $103.99 rebuilt. MARINE ALTERNATOR

Then someone came along and put the marine regulator in a car alternator. It cost $89.99 and up. ONE-WIRE ALTERNATOR

Well this still cost to much so what are we to do. In a attempt to solve this problem we will just use the car alternator with 1 wire and it worked; but lets dig more.

The alternator starts to charge a small amount when the engine is stated. The difference in the marine alternator and the car is the regulator. The regulator in the marine alternator has much better sensing capacity so the slightest charge turns it on and off. The car regulator does not. So when we use the car generator in a 1 wire setup we need to rev the motor to get it to start charging good enough to over come the regulator sensing ability and start working.

So now lets look at the alternator and how it works. The #1 or F post is where power comes in and is hooked directly to the regulator. This turns the regulator on and allows the alternator to charge. If you leave it off you may need to rev the motor to get the alternator to start charging. Once it starts it will work till you shut down the motor again. DO NOT hook a wire to the #1 post unless you have advise on doing so first.
The other wire #2 or S is the sensing wire. This reads how many volts is really in the battery and tells the alternator to stop charging. This wire is very easy to hook up and will stop the alternator from over charging and blowing up your battery. I suggest you use it.

Now to your other questions..... ..
I feel the volt meter is better. It does not get hooked in the same place as the amp meter. Hook 1 wire to keyed power and the other wire if it has it to ground. Some use the case as a ground.

A terminal block is not really needed just nice and neat. You can hook the wires direct to the key switch instead of the block.

If you have any more questions please start a new thread.

12V conversion
Wiring

Same guy is offering a replacement key switch, too.

• key switch on ebay

Phil, here's a light switch like the one I used. It's on ebay and the guy wants $9 for it. I bought mine at AutoZone for about $4, but at least you can see what to look for. I mounted mine in the same location as the original light switch....right side, under the edge of the hood, above the battery. Opposite side of tractor from the key switch location.

• light switch on ebay.

1. Fuse: The main idea is that the circuit the lights are on should be protected with a fuse. There are several options. You could rob an in-line fuse holder from a auto junkyard. Or you could do like I did and buy a generic 2 position push-pull automotive headlight switch from AutoZone (or similar) that has a built in fuse holder. 15 or 20 amps ought to do it.

2. My generic two position switch mentioned above works great for the same type of application you are talking about. In an automotive application, it was intended to send power to the park lights and taillights in the first position (pulled halfway out). And it's supposed to turn off the park lights and turn on the headlights and taillights in the 2nd position (all the way out). My switch has 5 wire connections on it. One for power in, two lugs on one side get power in position one and all 4 lugs get power in position two. I wired my headlights to the lugs that get power in both positions. I wired my red taillight to the lug that gets power in the first position and my rear worklight to the lug that gets power in the second position. Now when I pull the switch out halfway, I get headlights and a red taillight. If I pull the switch all the way out, the red taillight goes out and the worklight comes on.

3. That diamond thingy is a terminal block. The hot wire from the battery connects to one side along with one lead from the key switch and the line going out to the headlights. If you notice in the drawing, the other lead from the key switch goes to the other side of the terminal block. An original style key switch is simply an on/off switch. By turning the key switch on you send power to all the other parts of the electrical system.

4. I can't help you with your key switch. There are all kinds of weird things that could have been swapped in during the 12V swap. As I said above, the original key switch is simply an on/off deal and all it does is send power to the gauges and ignition system. That being said, I need to mention that the ignition system was changed a bit from my 1955 800 to your newer x01 series. I know that my tractor only has 3 posts on the solenoid where yours has 4. John in LA is much more expert in the reasons and effects of those changes. I heartily encourage you to get his input on your situation.

Good luck with it.

Jim