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If it were me.. I'd put on a fram ph8a oil filter and put in some cheapy supertech sae 30w oil and use that as a few hour break in oil.. say 10 hr.. and also have another fitler on hand, and change it at 1 hour.. that first filter will probably grab flecks and shavings from the rebuild that may have been missed. After warming her, yuo will probably want to check that head and valve clearances anyway. Ont he carb.. I usually tweak the mainject for smooth acceleration and no stumbling.. but no sooty exhaust. I tweak the idle air while at low rpms.. you can adjust low rpms by the idle stop screw. On a new engine i usually add a tablespoon of oil to each cyl and roll it over with the starter with the plugs out, then put the plugs in. on a tight rebuild you may want a 12v battery to boost the starter, and keep the 6 for the ignition. I assume assembly lube was used on all bearings.. etc? if so.. if all goes good.. and the pump was packed or lubed with assembly lube.. she should start sucking oil as soon as she spins over. For sure if the oil gauge don't do nothing in about 10 seconds.. shut her down and check for flow a the oil line to the gauge while spinning her over. All my 134 and my 172 engine will make oil spurts at the oil line with just the starter spinning over.. etc.. I like to work new rings and new sleaves at a variaty of rpm..all the way from low to high.. and DO work her.. don't baby her.. but I wouldn't set her at a single rpm and leave her.. like.. I wouldn't mow for my first break in chore.. I'd do a variety of tasks that day.. Soundguy
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