Ford 4000 ignition

The original requires a ground path through the starter button. The automotive type from napa requires a live feed rather than a ground path. The original button will only provide a ground path....

Rod

The most common problem is people replace the starter relay with one from a car parts store. This will not work!!!!! !!!!! !!!

So lets do a test and see if I am right. Take the 2 small wires off the relay. Now using a jumper wire apply battery power to the S post. Watch out!!! It may crank. If it does you have the wrong relay.

If not lets do another test. Hook up the 2 small wires again. Turn the key on and with a test light see if you have power on the wire where it hooks to the starter push button on top of the trans. If you do remove the wire and touch it to a good ground. Caution it may crank!!!!! If it does crank your starter button is bad.

Heres a wiring diagram for your application.

Lets deal with this coil first. YOU SAID that you did NOT replace the coil. Now you say you have a 12v coil. If you have a coil that is marked "12v no external resistor required" you do not need a resistor. If you have the original 6v coil you will need a 12v to 6v resistor in the wire from the terminal block to the coil positive post.

SO lets move to the relay. You say the relay is making a clicking sound when you apply POWER. Does this mean you jumped power to the S post and it clicked. If so you have the wrong relay but that will not prevent in from cranking. If you apply power to the S post and it clicks but does not try to crank; I have to assume you have a bad connection somewhere; a weak battery; and maybe a bad relay.

When I try to find a problem I often remove parts from the system; but advising this over the internet can get me in trouble because I do not know the mechanical knowledge of the person I am talking to. But I would run a battery cable from the post on the starter straight to the battery positive post. If it tried to crank then I would know the battery and starter are good and I could concentrate on the relay.

To show you what I mean..... ..... ..
I had a problem with my tractor starting this past winter. Had a battery I took out of my pickup so I knew it was good. Starter had just been rebuilt less than a year ago. I replaced all cables with new #2 cable and ends. Replaced the relay. Still would not start. I sat down and went threw it in my mind and could not figure out what to do. Then I started over and checked everything even though I knew it was good. Come to find out pressure washing the tractor had put water in my newly rebuild starter and had rusted it all up. This may be the long winded version but try to tell me everything you do so I am not guessing.

Did you disconnect the oem starter switch?

did you replace the oem starter solenoid?

Did you add a key-turn-to-start- switch?

The more we know.. the better answers we give.

Soundguy

As the others said.. if you did not use the correct oem style relay.. it probably won't function using oem wireing.

Most modern relays expect either power to the start(s) post.. or require both power and ground to two seperate posts. Very few are like the Ford relays that are internally hot, and only require ground to the relay.. etc.

Soundguy