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John in la diagram question

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GlenIdaho

09-04-2007 09:37:53




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Hello John; I have your diagram for a 12 volt conversion for Hundred Series Fords. I'm in the final stages of wiring and found that there is a difference of notation for 1/F and 2/S on your diagram and my alternator. The alternator is marked 1 R and the 2 F. I understood the "f" to represent "field" and the number 1 is the field. I'm a little confused as to the "F" being designated as 2. The alternator is a 10-SI. Should I ignore the R and F and just go with the 1 and 2 designators. This is probably a dumb question, but I learned along time ago the only question that is dumb is the one not asked. I don't want to mess anything up. I'd appreciate some direction. Thanks.

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john in la

09-05-2007 05:00:08




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 Re: John in la diagram question in reply to GlenIdaho, 09-04-2007 09:37:53  
I see Bob has already got your question answered for you.



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Nilram MN

09-04-2007 22:07:43




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 Re: John in la diagram question in reply to GlenIdaho, 09-04-2007 09:37:53  
Glen, I just converted my 55 960(the same setup as you have). Instead of the diode I picked up a liscense plate light at TCS for $3.50 and inserted it in the dash light knockout(mine didn't have a light). I gave the light a 180 degree turn so that when I turn on the key I can see if things are OK. My 2c Nilram.



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Bob

09-04-2007 10:52:40




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 Glen... in reply to GlenIdaho, 09-04-2007 09:37:53  
Here's the "straight dope"

When GM switched from the older style 10DN alternator to the "10SI series", a certain number were made WITHOUT an internal regulator, and were used with the old-style external regulator like the 10DN's used.

IF you have one of those alternators, the terminals will be parallel to each other, like this: . If the terminals are like that, an EXTERNAL regulator is needed, and you go by the (F)ield and (S)tator designations, and IGNORE the #1 and #2 designations.

MOST LIKELY, though you have a 10SI WITH an internal regulator, and the terminals arranged like this: - - .

Third Party Image

If so, #1 is "switched excite"... powered only when the ignition switch is "ON", through an "idiot light", resistor, or diode.

#2 is the "Voltage Sense" terminal... jumpered over to the large output stud, as shown, or wired
back to the battery cable side of the starter solenoid, for even more accurate voltage sensing, near the battery.

I hope this clears things up for you...

Bob (Alternator repair guy)

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Brian in MA

09-04-2007 12:57:41




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 Re: Glen... in reply to Bob, 09-04-2007 10:52:40  
I installed this set-up on my 4600 and I'm partial to the bulb instead of the diode. I bought a GM pigtail from the local auto parts store and installed it right into the charge location on the dashboard. It works just like the original set-up and the alternator was only $40 instead of the $150 original set-up, and there is no voltage regulator to worry about. I ignored the F & S and used the 1 and 2 and oit worked like a dream the first time I fired it up.

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GlenIdaho

09-04-2007 11:24:04




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 Re: Glen... in reply to Bob, 09-04-2007 10:52:40  
Got it! Thanks Bob.



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