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TW10 A whole list of questions

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HeyPigFarmer

12-16-2007 07:33:17

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Two years ago me and my dad bought this 1979 Ford TW10 2wheel drive. Since all we ever had were Deere's up to this point I don't really know a whole lot about it, and have a few questions.
1. When the tractor is warm and you drive it around you get this annoying gear chatter/gear roll over nose from the trans at lower engine speeds, say 1500rpm and below. Is this normal?

2. Is the engine in this thing wet sleeved? Some have told me it is, some have told me it's not. I noticed on Worthington Ag's site they sell oversize pistons and repair dry sleeves so I'm assuming it's not. But I could be wrong.
3. I thought the bushings were bad for the center front axle pivot, I bought new bushings and found out the pins are worn, not the bushing. Since the pins are welded to the axle as one solid unit, any way to fix this?

4. The one 3pt hitch arm flops around at the base where it attaches under the tractor, how do you stop this? It's really annoying.

5. The diff lock doesn't seem to work. It's hard to tell since it doesn't have enough power to really spin, but the pedal is only about an inch off the floor and you have to stand on it, is this how the thing is supposed to work? If not is there adjustment or something to it?
Second to last decision I let the old man make. The last one was I sent him off to look at a Deere 750 no-till drill and he came back with a Case IH 5300. A far cry from a 750.

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fordguy7000

12-18-2007 15:52:02

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

i have to agree with old ford mecahnic maybe next time the pig farmer should buy the tractor not dad and he can also take care of the check for Dad

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RodInNS

12-18-2007 18:58:39

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to fordguy7000, 12-18-2007 15:52:02

you know..... I wouldn't go too hard on him about that unless you've walked a mile or two in those shoes. I've walked a few of those miles....
I read the post in such a way that it was as much his money as his dad's, and I know the EXACT mentality that will buy cheaper EVERY time.
I deal with it every day, and believe me, it doesn't make life easy.
Life could be a lot easier sometimes, and farming a lot more profitable if some old men could change their ways once and a while instead of doing what they always did....
Just how I see that subject, tractor aside.

Rod

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HeyPigFarmer

12-18-2007 08:09:55

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

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HeyPigFarmer

12-18-2007 07:51:06

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

Well I figure they can't all be like this, there are enough people out there that like them. My dad got suckered in because it had new back tires on it and a newer paint job. He's the type that if it looks pretty he figures someone must have taken care of it. Which it does look pretty, I'll if I can attach a picture. Now we are stuck with the thing because he says he likes it too much to get rid of. Even though you have to charge the air every two weeks to keep it going, it's missing the wheel weights that most have on the inside of the rear wheels, needs a starter, needs a battery and cables, I'm trying to find a place on the tractor to set it up with two batteries because I always thought that worked better. The cab is half rotted, I can't believe there aren't lock nuts on the rocker arms, the 3pt pisses me off because that one side feels like it's going to fall off and the 750 No-till we use is the 3pt attach, it just a whole lot of little things.
For the gauges the fuel gauge works like a champ, the oil pressure gauge flutters between half and pegged out, the temp gauge rises and falls and rises and falls - I put two new thermostats in it but the gauge still does the same thing never getting past a quarter of the way up the gauge. At first I thought the charging system wasn't working at all so I swapped out the Motorola for a GM alternator, gauge still hangs out down by no charge but the battery stays up.
This is just frusterating, but that is most of the stuff my dad buys. Shoot he bought a 3010 as an abused puppy because it was pretty i.e new paint, and in 5 years I bet we had close to 10K wrapped up in that. New motor, clutch, 4 front pumps because he wouldn't fix the check valve in the trans and they always ran dry on start up, multiple 3pt bushings, the pinions that the spiders run on in the rear diff, carb, distributor, wiring, axle bearings. Every used tractor is only as good as it's previous owner. He got pissed but I sold it to worthington for parts. I didn't feel good selling that thing to anyone .

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Old Ford Mechanic

12-18-2007 13:40:12

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-18-2007 07:51:06

You have some kind of an electrical problem affecting your guages.The cuff on the torsion bar is the source of the lift arm slack.Wheel weights are optional you buy with or without any # you desire when you buy the tractor new.If you don;t have enough go buy some more.You should have checked the charging system with a multi meter to see if it was charging instead of changing the factory alternator for the delco.The tractor will start and run fine with one battery of the proper size.If it needs cables and a starter put them on it.And yes the rocker adjuster bolts have jam nuts on them instead of locknuts.Just tighten them down like they are supposed to be and they will be fine.It sounds like this tractor has been a working tractor and working tractors all need maintenance somewhere down the line.Either fix it or get your dad to sell it and buy you a John Deere since thats what you wanted to start with.Maybe your dad wants to buy what he wants instead of what you want,or maybe you think you know more than he does about farming and equiptment.It sure does'nt show how much you know in the way you are cobbleing up the repairs on the TW10.Be thankful you have a tractor,maybe your dad's doing the best he can.

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RodInNS

12-18-2007 13:21:47

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-18-2007 07:51:06

I don't know too much about the TW series tractors but I can't imagine that they were too different from the 10 series of that time which I do know quite well. First off, I wouldn't worry about a second battery. You appear to be fairly far south??? so the 4DLT should suffice well enough. Check the cables. Use crimp on ends rather than the bolt on replacements. Keep good big 2 aut cables on it with clean connections. The starters need their ground lug tightened periodically. If that doesn't help and it's a lazy turner, haul the starter off and take it to a starter shop for a brush and bushing job. Those are no expensive to keep going IF you have a good shop that knows to fix those things rather than rip you for a full rebuild. Stick an AC Delco battery in there if possible...

Re: the instruments. I didn't know that Ford used an oil pressure gauge on any of the tractors. I thought that they only used idiot lights...Sure it's not an aftermarket gauge of some sort?

The temperature gauge could be a wire problem from the gauge to the sender, a power supply problem to the gauge, or a bad sender.
I forget which way the gauge will peg if you ground it, but I think it goes hot. Try that and if it responds properly I'd expect a bad wire or bad sender...

I believe you can get RedTek kits to seal and recharge the air and seal th leaks. The truck supply shops should have them. If not get somebody to find the leaks and fix them...

I don't think you'll find any problem with the rockers moving either... The tight screw seems to work quite well here.

The cabs can be a lot fo work to fix tho... I've got one here that needs a lto fo work now and it won't be much fun. I knwo of guys that did fix them and it's a lot of work with a mig...

If you get all that stuff fixed you might find it quite a good tractor, and one that's a lot more miserly on fuel that those beloved Deere's you talk about.

Rod

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HeyPigFarmer

12-17-2007 12:35:04

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

Well I am a pretty die hard Deere guy, but that is pretty much all I�ve run and I know what they should and should not do. I�m not totally blind to other tractor�s strong points though. Our neighbor has a Farmall 1066, granted the torque sucks on it, the steering and hydraulics are less than desirable, the transmission is noisy as all heck and it ground off half of it�s dip stick. But it runs awesome. That thing will start around zero with no either, no block heater and it pulls like an animal. I also really like his Case 7120 but that is a whole lot newer than what we are talking about here.
The gear roll over noise I was just wondering if that was normal or I should be concerned since we won�t be using it for the next 5 months now is the time to find out. I don�t know if it did it when we got it or not since I didn�t sit in the thing for almost a year.
I was just wondering if it was sleeved or not, it doesn�t burn any oil yet with 5300hrs on it. I heard they will go forever but what started that was deciding if I needed to put Fleetguard DCA in the coolant, I did anyway figured it can�t hurt anything. Then that started an argument between me and the old man.

As for injectors where is the best place to get those checked out? The closest dealer around here is near 60miles away and he said he doesn�t want to touch them.
The thing turns just fine, if your standing on the diff lock or not, so from what Bill says the diff lock is in the �storage� position and I need to lift it up and turn it a half turn. I�m going to be out of town until Friday morning so I�ll try it then. I ordered and I&T for it yesterday.

The front pivot, I believe the problem with that is part of the reason we bought the thing, it came with a fully mounted 6 row bean puller and the old man is anti-rod puller. Plus when I plant I put on saddle tanks. I just assumed the pins were changeable and thought maybe there was some repair sleeve or some sort of fix out there.
Another question, the temp gauge, oil pressure gauge and the volt or amp gauge don�t work. Dad swore they did, I learned better when I ran the thing. �Holds awesome oil pressure, even when it�s turned off� Which tends to go first, the sending unit or the gauge? Should I bother to fix the factory ones or just switch to aftermarket? While on the subject what should that thing hold for oil pressure?

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paul

12-17-2007 18:43:27

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-17-2007 12:35:04

Not sleeved. They are prone to cavitation if you don't watch the antifreeze.

Some years ago, I bought an aftermarket gauge, found out a couple days later the one from Ford was several bucks cheaper. That was then, don't know about now.

Sounds like you bought a pretty beat out machine, hard to compare that to any other color when you are looking at non-abused others.....

--->Paul

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Old Ford Mechanic

12-17-2007 13:07:06

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-17-2007 12:35:04

Take your injectors to any deisel service shop.All they need to know is what they are out of.They will will check the pressure and spray pattern.Yes its a good idea you had on the coolant.Since the tractor will not be used for awhile,why not pull the front axle and mount and carry it to a good machinest.He can make new pins and mate them to you bushing's and the axle.The guages or the sending units could be bad.But they also may have a fuse in the wiring harness or a voltage stabilizer on the cluster.Pull the dash and check for this first.To trouble shoot dissconnect the wire at the sending unit.Turn the ignition on and ground the wire that plugs on the unit with a test light.If the guage works replace the sending unit.I would try to repair the factory guages instead of switching to aftermarket.With three not working i suspect you have a voltage supply problem.As for the diff lock,I've never seen a diff lock on a Ford with a "storage"position.All the ones on the big Fords i've seen were spring loaded.In other words when you needed the diff lock you just applied it into the down position with your heel.When you released the petal the spring disengaged the diff lock.If the spring is broken the diff lock will stay engaged at all times.The best place to check this is in slippery ground pulling an implement or with both rear wheels jacked up.Put it in a lower gear get it rolling and apply the diff lock.Both wheels should then pull.I'm not saying Bill is wrong about the storage position but i'ver never seen one work that way.You need the diff lock when wheel slippage begins so,you are not going to have time to stop and switch positions before you stick the tractor.You engine shoud have 30 to 40 lbs. of oil pressure at operating temp.It may have more when the oil is cold.Good Luck.

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sotxbill

12-16-2007 18:52:09

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

trans noisy due to wear on imput shaft and throwout bearing rattle on some, others imput shaft will rattle a bit..

the hyd lock.. the button has a storage position and working position.. pull it up and turn it half a turn and it will stay up high.. repeat and will will drop down to the floor,, make sure its in the up and engaged postion.. then yes its not much movement but it pushes a locking cog over to where it will eventually lock when it lines up due to the sping pressure on it.. but it may not lock for a turn of the wheel or so..after it locks you can take your foot off and it will stay locked till the pressure between the two wheels is release.. sometimes at the end of a row,, you have to push in the clutch and stop or even go backwards a foot to release the load, unlock the rear and then make the turn around... hth.. bill

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paul

12-16-2007 21:42:18

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to sotxbill, 12-16-2007 18:52:09

You mean the differential foot botton has a 'storage' position flush to the floor?

--->Paul

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Old Ford Mechanic

12-16-2007 10:24:12

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

The 401 cid engine was not sleeved to begin with.Some that had casting sand holes were sleeved and sent back out.These were dry sleeves.These were very durable and fuel efficient engines.If you are low on power i would suggest a set of rebuilt injectors and check the pump timing.New fuel filters also.Some of the tranny's were a little noisey.I'm not sure about the fix on the center pivot, but it sounds like the service has been lacking on that tractor.A little grease goes a long way on front axles.The diff lock may have a broken return spring or be stuck.Does it want to be hard to turn in either direction.This is a sign of a stuck diff lock valve.If not hard to turn the valve may be working properly.And yes you have to stand on it ,its designed that way.Its sounds like you are a diehard Deere fan,if so you'll most likely never be happy with anything else.

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HeyPigFarmer

12-16-2007 07:35:50

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Re: TW10 A whole list of questions in reply to HeyPigFarmer, 12-16-2007 07:33:17

Oh when he bought the TW10 he was supposed to be looking at a Deere 4240. The Ford was cheaper, I think I know why now.

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