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Ford 3000

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Arby

01-02-2008 09:35:29




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Hello Guys and Happy New Year,

I am more of a boat guy and basically know nothing about tractors. My wife and I recently aquired some land and it came with a diesel, Ford 3000 tractor. It appears to be quite rough but will start & run. It smokes quite badly and I am sure it could use some work.

I know it is hard to diagnose based on my very limited information but I am trying to figure out if it is worth loading up, taking to a shop and spending some money on or if I should just buy another used tractor to use. The person we got the land from said the tractor needs new rings and he doesn't know what else. I will mainly be riding around with a bushhog on this 25 acres to reduce mesquite tree growth, etc..

It is in the Madisonville Texas area.

Markings on the right side show:
C 5 NN 7006 BV (or BY) below that I see a date in 1968 and I assume it is that year model.

Thoughts? Is it worth spending some $ on?

Thanks,

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Texasmark

01-03-2008 08:38:18




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
That engine is not sleeved, so the cavitation problems common to sleeved engines ala holes in the sleeves (allowing coolant to enter the combustion chamber) is minimized. But it's still not a bad idea to add an inhibitor, or if the freeze is real cruddy, just drain, flush and refill like your car.

I have 40 year old tractors and after picking up on Sea Foam from a boating site, I gave my engines a bath in it; like a whole 16 oz can to a tank of diesel and did it a couple of times. Also, I have used diesel additives, and Marvel Mystery oil for years.

But this stuff was amazing. It cleaned up my exhaust and has made cranking very easy cause, for one thing, it eliminates carbon in the combustion chamber and carbon clogs your injectors and rings.

Try it, you won't be sorry and it is one heck of a lot cheaper than an overhaul.

Biggest thing on a diesel to determine overhaul requirements, is how well does it start when the temp is 70F or above. If it kicks right off, you are in good shape. If you need ether at that temp you are dead meat....BTDT

The year is correct. They started making that 3 cyl in '65 and it is one tough, fuel efficient engine.

Need more, ask,

Mark

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arby

01-03-2008 07:06:25




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
Wow, you guys are great. Thanks for the advice. I am not much of a mechanic so I think I will start with fresh fluids and filters at this point.

Thanks again.



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3000OH

01-02-2008 16:34:54




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
Other considerations before committing to engine rebuild:
-- What tranny do you have? All gears ok? If it"s an SOS, those can be pricey to fix if there"s anything wrong.
-- How"s the hyds? 3 pt go up & down ok? Will it hold a load up with engine off?

Just like older houses, cars, and trucks, gotta go into it with eyes wide open.

Having said all that, the 3000s have a reputation for being durn near bulletproof, esp. with the 8 spd trans. Parts are readily available and much you can do yourself with just a normal complement of tools and some skill...and knowledge from the folks on this board.

HTH

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trucker40

01-02-2008 14:20:59




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
Dont know,1968?It could get lots of hours on it since 1968. I would drain the old fuel out,put new number 2 tractor fuel in with some injecter cleaner.Then if that helped,change oil and run it some and see if it gets better. If that dont help I would get a overhaul kit and a manual and rebuild it. Take the head off,take it to a shop that grinds valves and have those done.If it has sleeves pull them out and put in new ones.Put new pistons and rod bearings in with new rings(none of the gaps lined up,and like the directions say,not upside down)Put all that back together,and torque every bolt.
Then if it dont run I would consider taking it to a shop. I dont have much faith in somebody in a shop doing work right,but I was a mechanic myself.I torqued bolts.Having a big name shop work on my big truck engine this summer,they left a bolt loose inside and ruined an injector.They cost $400.00 each.I dont think I would trust anybody anymore.I wouldnt take it to a shop unless I could stand right there and watch them.Ive heard all their bull#$%% excuse about insurance and whatever else.Thats just me,you maybe know of a good shop somewhere and thats fine.

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Tim K

01-02-2008 12:32:21




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
I would also change the coolant and don't forget to use diesel additive to prevent cavitation.



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soundguy

01-02-2008 12:07:57




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
I agree with the others..

#1.. change the oil / filter.

#2 change the air filter / fuel filter.

#3 get a manual OP gauge on it to see what you have for pressure. If you have good pressure, get a comp test done.. a ring or ring and main bearing job shouldn't eat your pocketbook too bad.

soundguy



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sotxbill

01-02-2008 11:25:24




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
first off.. change the oil and filter to a great 15w-40 diesel oil like chevron delo, shell rotella, or mobil delvac... all are availible at wallmart or a truck stop, but the oil filter will probably be the internal cartrage type that comes from a dealer or from a tractor supply store or from napa...this oil is full of additives that will start to clean the engine and help clean up stuck rings and sediments.

secondly get a new tank of diesel fuel.. drain the old fuel and add new. then add a can of super commercial grade injector cleaner like bg 44k or equivelent.. dont just get the cheap stuff at the auto parts, get the really good cleaner from a diesel injection place or automotive shop. Then run the tractor at different speeds taking care not to idle it for long times and not to lug it but a good load is ok at 1600 to 2000 rpm for about 10 hours... of work... by then the engine will have pretty much freed up and cleaned up as much as it can.. check for how easy it starts cold, how much it smokes, how much blow by...

lots of old tractors can be "cleaned up" and you will be amazed how much they can come back from clogged injectors and gumed up rings... modern diesel motor oil will clean and suspend the sediments and will over time completely clean up the engine. this clean up process can cause leakage of gaskets if they are worn out and only the gunk is sealing them up... modern diesel oil will actually eat up gaskets with silicon in them so gaskets from the late 60s and early 70s had to be replaced in some cases...due to high silicon content in the gaskets being leached out by the newer oils as document by cummins...

if it still doesnt suit you, rebuild it or sell it... hth.. bill

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old

01-02-2008 09:52:10




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 Re: Ford 3000 in reply to Arby, 01-02-2008 09:35:29  
What color is the smoke?? If its black it could be that some one turned up the pump on it. If its more white looking it just plan need to be run and worked good and hard for a few hours. Diesels don't like to be putted around they like to work hard of they will start to smoke and they will also some times start to spit at you

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