1947 2N

Get an I&T FO-4 manual, if you can find one(they have been out of print for several months).

I'd take the block to a machine shop that unless you know about such things. I'd go ahead and bore the block and install the cast-iron sleeves, rather than mes with the hardened steel sleeves.
They can be rebored at least once on subsequent rebuilds, and in my opinion, are much more satisfactory than the steel sleeves.

If you are a pretty good welder their is an easier way to get the old sleeves out. Lay the block on it's side and with a 6011 1/8" rod run a cold bead from the bottom of each sleeve to the top.Do this about 3 times in each sleeve and allow them to cool to the touch.You can then either pull them out with your hand or catch the bottom edge with a large screwdriver and tap them out. Be carefull not to weld through the old sleeve. After you get the old sleeves out lightly hone or sand the bore where the heat from the welding may have cooked the carbon to the bore slightly.Don't hone much. The new sleeves must have a .005 interference fit.

Don't try to drive the new sleeves in with the tool that you fabricated to pull them out with as that tool will split the sleeves when you try to drive them back in.

You can take a piece of flat plate of at least 1/2" thick and that will completely cover the top of the new sleeve plus about 1" or so and drive the new sleeves down till they are even with the deck of the block.Some of these N guys will tell you to freeze the sleeves etc but it is not necessary.I have done literley hundreds and I quit that freezing bit years ago. Can't tell the difference.

Ask on the N page about the specs for the crank.I don't know what they are I have forgotten.
Link
You could also call the local automotive machine shop in your area and they could give you this data.
Zane in Alabama.