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Friction Disc Replacement

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Michaels Dad

01-08-2008 09:18:38




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I’m planning on replacing the friction disk (P/N 83977032) on my 1956 640. This is the disk under the lever that controls the 3 point. So far I finally managed to get the nut, spring and washer off the handle, but wasn’t able to remove the plate that actually puts pressure on the friction disk. Exploded view doesn’t really tell me if there is a woodruff key on the shaft that extends into the plate.

I soaked the nut assembly with PB Blaster for several days to get the nut/spring off and I was hoping some of it might have gotten to that fit.

When I tried to gently pry the plate off it appeared to be spring loaded on the shaft. When prying it would separate about 1/8", but this was due to the spring loading. At the time I was reluctant to go any further for fear of breaking something.

I plan to take another run at it in a week or so and would like some input as to removing this plate.

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Michaels Dad

01-09-2008 04:25:13




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 Re: GEE WHIZ BRAIN FADE - Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Brian in MA, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  

GlenIdaho said: (quoted from post at 10:16:46 01/09/08) Geeeee WWWHHIIIZZZZZ, Am I getting old or what?

I read that thing a couple of times. Must have been in a time warp to some other post. I guess I need to make that appointment with the Doc.

Thanks guys for being so gracious!!!! Bet you were wondering where I was too!

Michael's Dad, I apologize for steering you in the wrong direction, literally.


No problem, I call them "senior moments", and I have them all to often.

PS...already fixed the one on the throttle linkage.

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Michaels Dad

01-08-2008 18:39:14




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Jim.UT, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  

Old Ford Mechanic said: (quoted from post at 08:23:06 01/09/08) Michael,I have fought this battle several times over the years.Take a small flame such as from a small plumbers butane torch to heat with.Get something behind the lever to pry with as you heat.Apply the flame directly on the hub part over the shaft.Do NOT heat the flat part of the lever as it will distort easily.IT takes very little heat to expand the lever enough to pry off the shaft.Clean it all up and apply anti-seize to the shaft and key before reassembly.A fairly easy repair if you are careful.And yes,the friction disc is cork and should last another 50 years!


Thanks, I'll use my propane torch.

There also seems to be some sort of a backing material on one side, gray in color. At first I thought it was the friction material, but I guess it's there to prevent the cork from rotating.

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Michaels Dad

01-08-2008 16:58:28




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to John O (MI), 01-08-2008 09:18:38  
OK, PB Blaster for a week, then some gentle massaging. Heat will be the last resort on aluminum.



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Michaels Dad

01-08-2008 15:41:07




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to paul, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  

GlenIdaho said: (quoted from post at 04:16:22 01/09/08) Hi Michael's Dad;

The friction disk plate is retained by a cotter key and castle nut. If I understand you correctly this is where you are having problems. Make sure the cotter key has been removed. If is broken off, there may be a piece in there preventing the nut from turning. If the battery tray is still in, it will be very hard to see let alone get in a position to get it out.
Once the cotter key is out, the nut should turn. If not soak it as Larry said. If it does not come out you can simply unscrew the stud.
It may be worth removing the battery tray rather that to struggle with it. If your mits are like mine its tough to get into tough spots. Let us know what you find.


Got the nut off (finally hit it with the torch), but again, what is it on the shaft/plate.... woodruff key?

Picked up the new disc, it's cork!!!!!

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Old Ford Mechanic

01-08-2008 18:23:06




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Michaels Dad, 01-08-2008 15:41:07  
Michael,I have fought this battle several times over the years.Take a small flame such as from a small plumbers butane torch to heat with.Get something behind the lever to pry with as you heat.Apply the flame directly on the hub part over the shaft.Do NOT heat the flat part of the lever as it will distort easily.IT takes very little heat to expand the lever enough to pry off the shaft.Clean it all up and apply anti-seize to the shaft and key before reassembly.A fairly easy repair if you are careful.And yes,the friction disc is cork and should last another 50 years!

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murn ga

01-08-2008 15:48:15




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Michaels Dad, 01-08-2008 15:41:07  
Yes, it is a woodruf key and this piece is alum, heat ligthly and tap sofly.



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Dan(nyc)

01-08-2008 16:12:34




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to murn ga, 01-08-2008 15:48:15  
I agree with murn the base is aluminum and bends easily and there is a woodruff key to keep it from rotating. I tapped mine back and forth in and out until it began to move and finally got it to come off. Dan--nyc



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Larry NCKS

01-08-2008 15:13:26




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to darren1710, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  
wrong friction disc Glen! also he says nut already off. Did u read original post carefully? :lol:



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GlenIdaho

01-08-2008 20:16:46




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 GEE WHIZ BRAIN FADE - Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Larry NCKS, 01-08-2008 15:13:26  
Geeeee WWWHHIIIZZZZZ, Am I getting old or what?
I read that thing a couple of times. Must have been in a time warp to some other post. I guess I need to make that appointment with the Doc.

Thanks guys for being so gracious!!!! Bet you were wondering where I was too!

Michael's Dad, I apologize for steering you in the wrong direction, literally.



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GlenIdaho

01-08-2008 14:16:22




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to Michaels Dad, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  
Hi Michael's Dad;

The friction disk plate is retained by a cotter key and castle nut. If I understand you correctly this is where you are having problems. Make sure the cotter key has been removed. If is broken off, there may be a piece in there preventing the nut from turning. If the battery tray is still in, it will be very hard to see let alone get in a position to get it out.

Once the cotter key is out, the nut should turn. If not soak it as Larry said. If it does not come out you can simply unscrew the stud.

It may be worth removing the battery tray rather that to struggle with it. If your mits are like mine its tough to get into tough spots. Let us know what you find.

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Larry NCKS

01-08-2008 13:16:04




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 Re: Friction Disc Replacement in reply to 3000OH, 01-08-2008 09:18:38  

Michaels Dad said: (quoted from post at 12:18:38 01/08/08) I’m planning on replacing the friction disk (P/N 83977032) on my 1956 640. I soaked the nut assembly with PB Blaster for several days to get the nut/spring off and I was hoping some of it might have gotten to that fit.

When I tried to gently pry the plate off it appeared to be spring loaded on the shaft. When prying it would separate about 1/8", but this was due to the spring loading. At the time I was reluctant to go any further for fear of breaking something.

I plan to take another run at it in a week or so and would like some input as to removing this plate.


A good penetrating oil is likely about as good as anything short of heat . . and I'm not sure what heat would do to it.

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