Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo Auction Link (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Ford Tractors Discussion Forum
:

Ford 1720 Hydraulic Pump removal

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Bob Rutherford

01-28-2008 20:55:36




Report to Moderator

Ford 1720 (1988 compact model, manual gearbox, 2WD, factory loader) overflowed the crankcase with hydraulic fluid. The Service mgr. at F/NH dealer recommended new pump. Turned out replacement pump model was changed over, also requiring new suction and hi press.pipes (rigid). New pump looks much like the power steering pump, much smaller than the original oval hydr. system pump. I was able to get a seal kit for the original pump, which looks fine inside, but here's my specific problem: The orig. oval hydr. pump mounts (with six bolts) to an adapter base on the rear side of the drive housing. This adapter base, which contains the oil seal that I think has failed, has four studs extending thru the drive housing, the nuts of which secure the power steering pump on the front side. I cannot access the two nuts in next to the engine block, preventing me from removing the adapter base. This must be removed to either a/ replace the seal to re-use the original rebuilt pump, or b/ the changed-over replacement pump has a short drive with a four -bolt flange and mounts directly to the drive housing, not utilizing the original adapter base. Either way it has to come off. Does anyone know a secret to get at the inside nuts on the power steering pump base flange? At the moment I'm stuck. I prefer to use the original set-up because I know that the rigid pipes all fit properly and the normal speed of the hydr. system will be maintained. The changed-over system, who knows how it will fit up and perform?
Would very much appreciate any suggestions! Sorry for the length of this posting, but I hope the problem is clearly described.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
soundguy

01-29-2008 11:07:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: Ford 1720 Hydraulic Pump removal in reply to Bob Rutherford, 01-28-2008 20:55:36  
Whichever way you go.. DO check one thing.

if the shaft seal blew out ont he pump allowing hyd fluid into the crank case.. find out what happened to cause it.

Was a relief valve stuck? did a hyd quik connect become half way unplugged. I've seen that alot on smaller chinese tractors that have qd's in line with the hyd pump.. the qd partially splits, and then the shaft seal blows.

Do get that crankcase oil changed too!

soundguy

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob Rutherford

01-29-2008 17:36:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: Ford 1720 Hydraulic Pump removal in reply to soundguy, 01-29-2008 11:07:41  
Thanks for the feedback, Soundguy. You are absolutely correct about the relief valve comment. The externally actuated relief valve linkage on the rear RH lift arm is broken because that valve actuator shaft is seized tight and I've been unable to get it freed up (???) Normally I compensate for that by dropping the 3PH control lever a bit until the hitch still stays up, but the excess pressure is relieved. You can hear this by a slight variation in engine speed. (I know, Mickey Mouse - I should have got that fixed properly) Of course, someone other than myself used the tractor for several hours plus an hour running the road and was unaware of this - i figured that led up to the problem. I'm working on that relief valve too with no success to date, and yes, an oil change will be done immediately once I get it back together again. Meanwhile I,m still held up by the two inside nuts on the power steering pump base flange. May have to remove front bodywork and rad to gey at them. yuck. I used to like this little tractor.....Thanx again - Bob.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
soundguy

01-30-2008 06:26:11




Report to Moderator
 Re: Ford 1720 Hydraulic Pump removal in reply to Bob Rutherford, 01-29-2008 17:36:40  
Good luck on that.

Yep.. front tin may be stopping you.

DO get the linkage in the rear attended to to get those hyds shut off.. etc..

soundguy



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy