1960 Ford 861 Diesel 5-speed Transmission

Which one is correct and what is a good modern alternative?

The seals between the chambers apparently don't leak as transmission is low, hydraulic chamber varies per cylinder extension, rear diff is on the money. Each chamber can have its own flavor of oil. 80W90 is readily available whereas 80/90 or 80 requires a 45 mi trip so I looks like 80W90 goes in the transmission, labeled hydraulic oil goes in the hydraulic chamber and 80w90 in the differential. If the chambers start to mix then universal oil will go in all three until the seals are replaced.

As for NH 134. I put a Jackson Power Steering Unit and original power steering pump on the tractor. I use NH 134 in the power steering pump per Roland Jackson as his systems are built to be used with a loader pump and thus hydraulic fluid. The same spec oil comes's in an Orange Bottle for my Kubota G1800 lawn mower's hydrostatic drive but the 134 labeled bottle is cheaper and works ok.

Rotella 14w40 in the engine, is that ok? When I was a kid (5 y/o when the 861 came off the line in 1960) Quaker State v Penzoil v Havoline v Gulf v etc. was the big debate. 20w in winter 30w or 40w in summer, Straight v multiweight, etc. etc Rotella does make a 10w30 labeled for diesels which has to go into the little Kubota diesel as the engine valleys are too small for 15w40 throughly to get into and adequately lubricate the engine while transfering heat to the water jacket.

Now the next big question: On the 80w90 oils there is a GL4, or a GL5 specification. Early 1950's john deere's mentioned a GL 1 or GL3 spec. What's the difference between the GL's? Do the GL #'s make much of s difference? Does the newer GL5 supercede GL4,GL3, etc., and work just as well as the older oil?

with your mild climate, I'm sure that you'll be fine with 80W90 in the transmission and differential. And 15W40 in the crankcase. Up here in Michigan, 134 is a better choice for the transmission (smoother shifting plus the risk of hydraulic contamination). And I switched from 15W40 to 10W30 because of hard starting in sub-zero weather.

Any of the GL-rated gear oils should be fine for your tractor.

--->Paul

My opinion is that the Ford engineers designed and had the transmission manufactured with clearances optimized for 80w viscosity fluid. I"ve seen the guts of 40-50 year old trans that have used 80w (or 80w90, 75w90) and they look very good. Unless water gets in, but that"s a different story. I have not seen the guts of a manual trans that has used 134 fluid for the past 40-50 years. Until that time, my opinion remains that the thicker gear oil is the better choice.

You will continue to hear that the current FNH recommendation is to use 134 fluid - that"s true. Heck, it may even be just as good - gotta be honest! Still, I don"t KNOW that yet so, my trans has gear oil in it.

He he he - told you it was a debate point!

jb

If you look at it all new cars and trucks still use 90w in rear ends and standard trans from what I know.

With that in mind you have to ask.....
Does Ford built any newer tractors that use 90w oil???
If the answer is NO; then could the advise to use 134 oil in the older tractors be because they do not stock 90w oil anymore.

A dealer will have 90w because that is what Joe farmer wants but is it branded Ford????

I do not visit the Ford dealer very often so I do not know. But if Ford Tractor does not stock and sell to its dealers Ford branded 90w then I would say you have found why they recomend 134 now.

Actually, the new manual transmissions in cars all use thin oil, very similar to 134 - maybe even a bit thinner. ATF is the fluid of choice, probably due to availablility. I would hazard a guess that trans hydraulic fluid would work - not that anyone should experiment!

BUT - the clearances on these transmissions were engineered and machined for that viscosity fluid. In fact, if you use gear oil in them, the the clearances are so tight that it can't lubricate the gears and they fail.

Design and manufacture for a thin fluid - then use a thin fluid. Design and manufacture for a thick fluid - then use a thick fluid. Seems easy to understand - even for a brick like me!

Anyway, that's my opinion and why it's held. Other people have other opinions and hold them for other - perfectly reasonable - reasons.

jb