Ford 801-D , bleeding fuel system

From what you're saying, you don't even know if it's a fuel problem?

A engine with an injection pump not pumping enough fuel at cranking-speed will start better with ether. But, so will an engine with low compression, or out of time, etc.

Also, you said the pump was rebuilt - so what exactly does that mean? Did a pump-shop patch it up and check fuel-delivery on a pump test-stand?

Also, once you start it with ether, does it then run good?

Heating the manifold will help a lot.

jb

I pulled all my Ford catalogs and I have the full 1 1/4" 800 Service manual in original print, among several others and none told how to bleed the pump, nor explained the function of two screws like I mentioned (one 1/2" and the other 5/16) and are on both sides of the pump....just like my Roosa on my JD.

They did direct you to pump timing moreso than pump bleeding for a start problem if you bled the filter and have fuel at the injector.

What I did run across was an old 801 pump response on this site from jdemaris who lives up in New York or thereabouts and frequents the site regularly. Seems to be a very knowledgeable guy even though he is direct (to the point) in his conversations some times.....like all of us, me anyway. Grin

I would get his attention and ask him for specific directions.

Sorry for the lack of adequate info.

Mark

After you did the engine work, how did you time it?

I (ahem) did what BJR owned up to and timed one 180 off. It was frustrating! Simple change to correct it and it started so fast it annoyed me! But the tank was filled up to the top - that helps a lot.

jb

I get Roosa's and CAV's mixed up some times. Since you start on starter fluid everything but fuel delivery must be ok.

First you do have adequate available fuel in the tank.....

Then, I'd go to the pump where the fuel line enters and crack it insuring that you have a not-interrupted source of available fuel there (since you already did the filters).

Then, on the side of the pump should be (remember I'm trying to remember) a screw or a screw/nut that is in the side of the main pump housing and is just sitting there; obviously it's not trying to attach anything to the pump; also it will be small, 3/8" or less, maybe a lock nut and a slotted screw rather than a hex head screw. It is not the one that is wired and sealed....that one is for flow and you want to leave it alone.

Crack that one and turn engine over till you get solid fuel.

Then since you are having such a problem, go to the outlets of the pump and crack them. Crank till you get fuel.

Then move down to the injectors and do them.

If wrong, later on today I'll be going out to feed and will look and correct any errors I may have made.

My Fords start with '63 models (2000, 3000, 4000) and they use CAV distrubutors. Sure yours isn't a CAV. They look a lot like a Roosa distributor pump.

Mark

it might fight and buck and run a bit rough for a few seconds.. but it can/will save the starter and some aggrivation.

soundguy

it might fight and buck and run a bit rough for a few seconds.. but it can/will save the starter and some aggrivation.

soundguy