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weight for front of 971

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NWMO 901 SOS

03-16-2008 20:39:25

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Good evening friends,

Had another chilly weekend, but I know it's warming up soon. Had a couple of very nice days last week. I was looking at some weights (old IH wheel weights) that an associate of mine has laying around, when he mentions $1/lb I took back the weight I was looking at to return it. After some thought, he said he had 4 weights and would take $100 for all.
I kept the one I was going to return and weighed it this weekend, they are 75# each. I will have to make a flat bracket to make them work, but I don't think it will be too bad. With a price of $.33/lb I figure to go ahead and get them. I want the wieght for spring brush cutting and don't have the time to be too picky, plus it seems pretty fair at this price.

How much weight did the optional weight boxes for the front of these tractors typically have? I will have #300 available, but didn't know if that would be overkill. I assume it comes down to how hard it steers and the terrain being mowed.

On a separate note, I tested my headlights by wiring directly to the battery this evening and they both work great. Now I just need to wire a new switch and provide better ground connections. What do you all like for a replacement switch? and where should I pull power from? My tractor doesn't have a terminal block, but I was thinking to splice in on the backside of the ignition switch allowing the lights to only be powered when keyed (keep my boys from flippin them on when playing and running my bat dead) :D :D . Toggle switch would be easy and look ok.

Lastly, I see on the wiring diagram that the light circuit is fused and will set it up that way. Is that basically protection for the rest of your wiring when your power line to lights grounds due to wear on the chassis/body??

TIA
Chris

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Brian in MA

03-17-2008 13:07:37

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to NWMO 901 SOS, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

As far as the lights go, I wired the same way for the same reason on my 4600. I bought a 2 position pull-out switch with fuse at TSC for less than $10 and added a cheap GM heavy duty flasher for the marker lights. You pull the switch half way for the roadway flashers on the fenders and all the way for headlights mounted on the sheet metal around the radiator. When I turn off the ignition switch, no lights work. I too have boys that like to play with the switches.

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Larry NCKS

03-17-2008 12:42:23

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to cainel, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

No reasons there Chris, but no more lights than that tractor has, unless you ammend them. you're not going to hurt that ignition switch by having them on the keyed side.

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NWMO 901 SOS

03-17-2008 12:36:30

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to RodInNS, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

Thanks Soundguy,

I didn't even know that could create a problem. Ignition appears original. As previously stated, my tractor does not have a terminal block any longer, just two wires that come out of the harness. Is there any reason not to pull the power directly from the battery cable (current cable already has a pigtail not used), or from the hot side of the solenoid/relay?

TIA

Chris

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souNdguy

03-17-2008 12:11:25

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to NWMO 901 SOS, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

I got 340# on my 5000, and it's just enough to keep the nose down when i mow with a 10' mower.. slightly bigger tractor.. but i don't think you are near hurting anything with only 300#.

I know it's tempting to pull headlamp power after your ignition switch.. but many ignition switches aren't designed to carry the power of lamps... I'd tap it on the load side of the charge system.. IE.. whichever wire powers your ignition.. trace it back and grab power from where it gets power... this will keep your net charge / discharge relationship correct. Either use an inline fuse.. or get a generic push/pull lamp switch with a fuse holder..

soundguy

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Charlie C.

03-17-2008 12:32:29

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to souNdguy, 03-17-2008 12:11:25

Another way to do this is to put a feed the light through a relay that would be entergized by the Ign. sw. Also install a sw in the relay circuit and you can turn off the lights when you want.
Basicly you have the same thing as you mentioned except the power for the lights does not go through the ignation sw.

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NWMO 901 SOS

03-17-2008 05:44:02

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to Dell (WA), 03-16-2008 20:39:25

Larry,

Just wanted to let you know I glanced at the ebay weights and for someone in the Midwest needing 600# they might turn out to be a good deal. That's pretty nice that he will deliver for free to northern MO. My lovely wife didn't complain when I told her I was spending the $100, so I best not push my luck. Have a great day and maybe I'll get over your way some time this summer or fall.

Chris

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NWMO 901 SOS

03-17-2008 05:33:55

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to NWMO 901 SOS, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

Thanks Larry,

I appreciate the heads up on the ebey weights, but can't justify the extra $$ in purchase and pick-up. I will post pics once I get the IH wheel weights fixed to the front of my tractor. Thanks for clarification on the fuse.

Chris

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Larry NCKS

03-17-2008 04:40:06

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Re: weight for front of 971 in reply to Jerry/MT, 03-16-2008 20:39:25

There are some Ford suitcase weights on eBay right now. There are 8 of them weighing 75 pounds apiece. They sell as a lot and are at $50/each right now, about twice what you're quoting for the IH wieghts, with 8 days left. If you're interested, I'll send a link.

As to the lights, keyed power would be good as you described. The fuse protects only the wiring involved in getting electricty from the battery to the lights. It protects wiring on both sides of the fuse.

HTH

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