A few tech Q's on my 'new' Jubilee

OR, .. it sounds like you are a machinist.. I guess you could 'from scratch' just make your own, and make a block that grabs the oil, routes it to an oc valve, and returns the oil back to the block where it would go to the next thing in line... the 3pt lift..

You could also rig up an engine mounted pump.. either crank or from a belt and hang a pump.. and make remotes that way..

soundguy

if it holds decently, and you can live with the slight bob.. I probably wouldn't mess with it .. but if it bothers you.. you can for sure tear into it.

Remotes.. as others indicated.. the remote for the NAA is a wee bit hard to come by... however.. you can do the 'cheat' that many do and chanin the upper lift arms to your rear axle and then puill the plug on that small funny option cover ont he front corner of the lift cover, and run a hose from there to a open center spool...IF SA, you simply lift the 3pt lever to power the remote cyl ( can do this without a spool for SA applications.. just run hose to the cyl..) then lower the 3pt handle to let oil exhaust... If it is a da spool, then you will need to run it's return line via hose over to your hyd fill cap.. drill and tap the cap for a fitting, and screw your line into there.. Lift the 3pt handle to get oil flowing thru the OC remote to the sump.. then plumb your lines as needed from the spool to their cylinders.. it's for sure the low tech way.. but works. many of us that need a single SA hyd tap are doing / have done this to get out of buying a 300-800 dollar hyd valve that fits the lift cover correctly and allows the 3pt to function..

soundguy

verticaltrx..... ...you write..... .."3. The rear main seal is basically shot, with it being a 2-piece seal would it be possible to replace it without splitting the tractor? (rotate the old seal out and new seal in around the crank) I've done this on automotive engines, but not sure if it could be done with this engine, any insight?" ..... ....yep, them hi-tech jingle-jangle tranny anti-clog cotter-keys workin' eh?

As a general rule, the 2-piece rope crankshaft seal is "semi-bulletproof" and doesn't leak. But the tranny input shaft seal ($3, cheap) LEAKS from OVERFILLED tranny oil. Most trannys gitt overfilled from rainwater thru cracked and rotted tranny shifter boot. ($5, cheap) Probably good idea to drain yer chocolate colored tranny oil.

Pull one of yer 6"-plate tranny dipstick bottom bolts and lett'chur overfill drain dribble down the side overnite. That will be yer correct dipstick level. Mark yer dipstick with new level, not all dipsticks are accurate. Lotta dipsticks say full with all cylinders extended. The only cylinder you have is the 1-cup 3-point hydraulic lift, so don't worry about it. Overfilled tranny oil will splash out yer trumpet mouths and greese yer brakes. not good.

You write..... .."4. The tractor has a swinging draw bar kit installed but I'm missing the main pin that holds the draw bar in, under the tractor. It appears to use a ~1" dia. pin, maybe 3" long, straight sided with a hole in it. Is there a part number for this or a place where I could find one, or should I just make one out of some round stock?" ..... ...heres pictures of 2-types of swinging drawbar 1"-pins. Mine is still slightly different and uses a linch-pin to lockitt inplace in the SDB clevis hanger under diffy. ($5, cheap) Just go to yer local tractor parts and start wavin' yer hands (grin)

Dang, you been lookin' in the archives??? Will wonders never cease. That really pleases me. Recommend you squander $25 (cheap) for I&T FO-19 manual for your new-to-you NAA Jubilee ..... .HTH, Dell