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Del - Sometimes the serial number is obscured by grease, rust, dirt -- or a combination of the three -- so have a small scraper and a narrow wire brush handy, because you'll probably need them. The number itself is stamped on the engine block above the fourth bolt holding the manifold on (nearest the radiator). You'll notice a narrow machined surface just above the manifold; that's where to start. I've included a link at the bottom of this message; follow it to Don Clough's web site, where he has the production matrix for (I believe) all Fordson tractors produced, from the early F's through the E27N's, i.e., 1917-1952. There's also a picture to help you locate the serial number. It is entirely possible that there is no serial number on the engine, as some of the replacement blocks were not marked. You said the tractor was made in England in the 1920s. Actually, the Fordson Model F was made in the USA from 1918-1928, and also manufactured in Cork, Ireland from 1919 to 1922. The tractor was redesigned in 1929 and became the Model N, and made in Cork from 1929 through 1931-32, when production was moved to Dagenham, England. The end of the fuel tank should be stamped with the location of manufactire (if the tank is original to that tractor). Early U.S.-made Fordson tractors' fuel tanks are stamped "Henry Ford & Son, Highland Park, Mich. USA", later ones are marked "Fordson, made by the Ford Motor Company, Detroit, Mich USA", while the foreign-made tractors' tanks have "Cork, Irish Free State" or "Cork, Ireland" or "Dagenham, England" on them. Basic design is the same, though. As for torque specs, well, I have never seen anything official on that subject. The Fordson owner's manual (I recommend buying a copy, as there are parts diagrams and answers to many questions contained therein) just says to tighten them "firmly". I happen to think that one man's definition of "firm" doesn't necessarily coincide with another man's (depending on brawn, wrench length, etc.), so I'd take the bolt measurements (diameter, length, thread pitch, etc.) and consult an engineering reference handbook. I would suppose that as long as the bolts are sufficiently tight, the most important thing is to have them all equally torqued, especially for something critical like head bolts. Good luck with the project! -- Maine Fordson
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