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Fordson Tractors Discussion Forum

F Engine Rebuild

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Frank L

04-14-2006 10:44:54




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In reviewing my options, it appears that I may need new main brgs poured. So far in western NY I have learned of 1 source locally and another in the mid-west. Locally it sounds like I may have to send my grandson back to pick it up when he gets his drivers license( he's 5 now!) Are there sources around that people have had success with? Also is it possible to bore the mains over-size and install a bronze( or other metal) sleeve into the block? Has anyone had any experience undertaking such a project? I hear that babbit is a very forgiving metal in a bearing that is not "pressure-lubed" and that bronze may not hold up.

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SteveWelker

04-21-2006 10:39:18




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 Re: F Engine Rebuild in reply to Frank L, 04-14-2006 10:44:54  
I would not recomend using Bronze bushings for main bearings. I think this would be asking for problems. There are some Model "A" guys converting the blocks to use modern insert style bearings in the blocks. An "A" block is not a full pressure lube system but it is better than a Fordson. I don't know if this would work in a Fordson, as I don't know if a insert bearing of the correct size exists, or if adaquate lube could get to these bearings in a Fordson. It would be interesting to look into, I just have not yet had the need. If you do a search for model A rebuilt engines you may find some guys who could help you out.
We had 2 Blocks Rebabitted about 15 years ago by a guy who specializes in "A" and "T" rebuilds. He was able to make the tooling based off what he had for his "T" and "A" blocks. This guy is now passed away but his bussines is still going mainly for model A's. I don't know if they would still do a Fordson. I have there info(located near Lancaster PA) if you are interested. As of late we have been lucky finding blocks with good/decent babbit, and building a good tractor based on that engine. Good luck, hope this helps.
-Steve

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Frank L

04-23-2006 13:19:35




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 Re: F Engine Rebuild in reply to SteveWelker, 04-21-2006 10:39:18  
Hi Steve, Thanks for all the info. Engine rebuilder suggests regrinding the crank to have a workable engine. When doing so, main brgs will need reboring or refitting. I thought refitting would leave space on the sides of the crank mains and not be satisfactory. Therefore rebabbitting or sleeving the mains in the block. Talked with a man this week that has restored 5+ "Fs" and he thinks good or new(rebabbitted) main caps and refitting mains in block will produce a workable engine. (There were no shims under the caps when I disassembled the engine) What experience have you had when reassembling an engine like this? Most running of the "F" will be in parades, but I also want to plow with it. Last year I restored a McCormick-Deering I-H 2 bottom, 14" Little Genious trailer plow and would like to use it. I believe the "F" should pull it. I would like the info on the Lancaster company when you get a chance. It's within reasonable distance to me. The local parade is the first w/e in August, so I need to keep moving. Thanks again for your help and encouragement. FL

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SteveWelker

04-24-2006 10:20:14




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 Re: F Engine Rebuild in reply to Frank L, 04-23-2006 13:19:35  
I've heard of just having the caps babbited and this working fine. Most of the time the caps are wore more than the block. I think it depends on how much you are going to take off the crank, this will determine how good a fit you get in the block. How much babbit (thickness) is in your caps and block now? If you are only going to parade the tractor, you may be able to get away with filing some off the caps to get a tighter fit. Also is the crank severly damaged or out of round? A little polishing with fine emery cloth is all most cranks need unless they were run with the bearings loose.
It may be a stretch to pull to 14" plows. I have a 1931 irish with high compression head and can pull 2 14" plows with power to spare, but traction can be a problem with steel wheels. You need to be quick on the depth control if it starts to dig in. Alot depends on the soil conditions.
The place near Lancaster PA that does model A's can be found at www.schwalms.com Their address is 332 georgetown road, Strasburg, PA 17579. PH# 717-687-6976 Like I said we had 2 engines that were done back in the mid to late '80's by the founder Baron Schwalm when he was working in his basement, and he did an exceptional job. I'm not sure if the guy who is running the bussiness now would do a fordson,but if he does the same quality as Baron you will not be dissapointed in quality.
Hope this helps!

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Frank L

04-25-2006 12:36:02




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 Re: F Engine Rebuild in reply to SteveWelker, 04-24-2006 10:20:14  
Hi Steve, The main bearing surfaces on the crank are; Front=1.987-1.992", Center=1.982-1.987", Rear=1.976-1.979. The main bearings in the block are;Front=1.995-2.001" top to bottom, 1.998-2.004 side to side, Center=1.993-1.998" t to b, 1.991-1.996 s to s, and Rear= 1.995-2.000" t to b, 2.000-2.005 s to s. Some of the side to side variation may be due to not having the caps lined up exactly with the block. The amount of babbitt in the bearings is a little hard for me to estimate. One block bearing (I think the center)had a little oil that oozed out when the engine rebuilder squeezed an edge with his thumb. He thought this might be a problem. I just went out and removed the caps. Each cap has a hand gouged diagonal oil groove. I gouged them deeper until the bottom was rough and I couldn't go further( I presume that was the rough casting).It appeared to scale over 1/32"+ in the bottoms. The sides were 1/32" and 1/16"; each cap seems to be off-set like that. I'm wondering now, based on your comments and those of the other restorer,if to go ahead and have the crank ground. I could then try to fit the existing caps or buy good or(rebabbitted) caps and fit them. O BOY, isn't this fun. All part of the challenge, and my wife thinks it's great that I'm in the garage-not the house! Thanks Steve.

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