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Fordson Tractors Discussion Forum

Fordson F Clutch

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Dave62

10-29-2007 20:03:33

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Fordson Folks, I know this comes up with Fordsons all the time but I get 10 answers on how to fix it!

We have a 1927 F and after sitting the clutch sticks. We can break it free and use it by stopping the belt pulley but I don"t think it is going to fix itself so we are ready to split the tractor.

We have no manual but are pretty good with most things...just have not split a Fordson..Yet!

Before we split it and tie up a bay does anyone have any pre-planning suggestions

Have heard:
Clean the plates
Try to use form out some dimples with a hammer
Get "new" or exchange plates
The throw our or whatever makes a real tough grinding noise when we use the clutch before it is free and the brake takes over then it is fine until the next day. Any ideas there?

I suppose any engine work should be done when split? The engine runs Great! Just some blow-by especially when the clutch is being used/abused heavy. A bit of an intermittant knock that sounds like a lifter or rod that seems to go away mostly after it is warm. Some clatter down there either lifters, cam gear or the Mag conversion drive making noise.

It is a 1927 per the s/n
Mag conversion
Belt drive governor that works grear
High Comp. Head
Starts on the first pull
Just an occasional puff of other than clean exhaust. are we close?

Any help would be great! Thanks.

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Dave62

10-30-2007 20:35:32

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We Split it ! This Is What We Found in reply to Dave62, 10-29-2007 20:03:33

Butch,
Thanks for the great information.
Here is what we found when we split it & removed the clutch.
1. The clutch is rough. Many plates are scored and burned. The square shafts are smooth but some are worn.

2. The throw-out bearing is real rough too because someone put in steel split washers between it & the clutch. I suppose they were trying to get more pressure on the clutch but all it did was gouge the heck out of that bronze surface terribly. Hence the noise we heard as soon as any pressure at all was put on the pedal.

Splines are good. Pilot bearing is good too.

The transmission drive shaft seems a little loose going thru to the trans. Is there supposed to be a seal there? If so its not tight anymore. Can't see anything cause of the belt pulley gear.

The brake did work when we ran it but the adjusting screw was backed off quite a bit. I think I remember there was a setting for that....

There was trans oil in the housing and I assume it mixed some with the engine. We had it filled to about 5/8 inch below the top of the filler cap. Too high? I hope..

Looking for ideas but thinking of:
Replace/rebuild the clutch
Replace the throwout bearing. Ours is marked F-1759-D looks like. I see that the Fordson House has what they call the Clutch Release Plate available either S-461 or S-461-B

I see they have a clutch assy but don't know if rebuilt or what for $95

Any further ideas would be great.

Steve, Thanks for you comment also.
I hope you might have some info after reading this post

Thanks very much!

Dave

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Dave62

10-29-2007 20:09:16

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One More Thing in reply to Dave62, 10-29-2007 20:03:33

We are using SAE 30 in the Crankcase and 90W in the rear. Good enough or do we need the 600W in the rear and where does one get that anymore?
I heard that the engine oil should be heavier also.

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stevewelker

10-30-2007 19:42:13

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Re: One More Thing in reply to Dave62, 10-29-2007 20:09:16

Butch pretty much explained it all and I agree with all he said. The bow in the plates and smooth surfaces on plates and drive lugs are real important as Butch points out.
We also run 30w non-detergent engine oil and 90w or 140w gear oil in alot of our tractors and it works fine for shows and what not. On a few that we still give a good workout plowing we do run 50w non detergent engine and 600w worm gear oil in the rear. It is expensive and we get it from a industrial oil distributor in either 30 gal drums or 5 gal buckets. Castrol and Lubriplate both have this 600w.
Only thing I can add on the clutch is, 1 make sure the traensmision brake is not adjusted too tight, and 2 if you can get ahold of an english 'N' clutch they often seem too work better possibly because the case has scoops that pull more oil into the disks.
As for the engine rattles, almost every Fordson has some. Loose front crank pulley, sloppy timing gears, and loose belt pulley drive gear can all make harmless rattles that may sound like it is flying apart. The deep knocks are what can be bad. Loose Wrist pins and rod bearings will make noise under no load, but go away quick with a little load. Most fordsons have a rather loud exhaust, slipping a muffler on the end of the pipe can quiet them down to pinpoint a rattle. Be prepared, the rattles sound alot worse with the exhaust quiet even on a good engine.
Good luck on the split!
-Steve

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Butch Howe

10-29-2007 21:25:33

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Re: One More Thing in reply to Dave62, 10-29-2007 20:09:16

You will hear many different cures to fix a Fordson clutch but most are BS. Any dimpling, peening or cutting of the plates is a waste of time. Those Ford engineers designed the clutch the way it is and here comes some farmer with a hammer and chisel and decides he is going to fix it. Most of the time, if a clutch hangs up when it is cold and works well after the first use it is dirty and gummed up. I have one in my collection that always does this. I bring the idle way down and pop it into gear. The with my foot on the clutch I drive it around until it frees up. After that it works fine until the next time. Sound familiar??
If that Fordson starts and runs that well I wouldn't touch the engine. The noises are of little concern. I use 30W nondetergent in the engine and 90W in the rear. No need to buy the expensive 600W. Take the clutch out and disassemble it. Use C clamps when splitting the two halves. Examine the plates. Any that are burnt or grooved should not be used. A good plate should have a very slight cup to it when on a flat surface. Clean up the plate surfaces with fine steel wool. Check the guides that the clutch plates slide on. They may be worn and grooved which will hang up the plates. Look at the surface what the clutch bearing rides on for wear and grooving. The clutch throwout bearing should be smooth and not worn thin. Some of them had leather facing rivetted to the face and the rivets are cutting into the clutch face. (possibly your clutch noise)Check the springs for uniform length and for broken or bent ones. I'd look for another clutch for parts before I split it. Also get yourself an old Fordson manual which explains the clutch better than I can. Maybe some of the expert guru's have more to add that will help you out. Steve are you out there???

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Dave62

10-30-2007 19:46:25

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Re: One More Thing in reply to Butch Howe, 10-29-2007 21:25:33

Butch, Thanks for the great information.

Here is what we found when we split it & removed the clutch.
1. The clutch is rough. Many plates are scored and burned. The square shafts are smooth but some are worn.

Splines are good. Pilot bearing is good too.

The transmission drive shaft seems a little loose going thru to the trans. Is there supposed to be a seal there? If so its not tight anymore. Can't see anything cause of the belt pulley gear.

The brake did work when we ran it but the adjusting screw was backed off quite a bit. I think I remember there was a setting for that....

There was trans oil in the housing and I assume it mixed some with the engine. We had it filled to about 5/8 inch below the top of the filler cap. Too high? I hope..

I see they have a clutch assy but don't know if rebuilt or what for $95

Any further ideas would be great.

Thanks very much!

Dave

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