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FSM Noisy Clutch During Engage/Disengage

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Bill S.

12-16-2001 19:18:22




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Today while working loading dirt with the front end the clutch developed a noisy which sounds like a dry (no oil) planetary gear assembly. Since I don't either think there is one of these on my FSM and it is quiet once the clutch is fully engaged I'm led to think pilot bearing or clutch release bearing. The clutch feels and operates normal but just a wee bit as if the disengagement is not quite as quick/complete. This implies to me a binding pilot bearing. Having no internal experience with this 2 stage (oops! I forgot to tell you this) clutch is there something I'm overlooking? I have reviewed the IT manual but that can't compare with words from the experienced. Brian, back on 12/15/99 you posted in post #901 that some FSMs were fitted with a bronze bushing that may go dry. It's not a big worry (that's a blessing) and it can be ignored. Is there any way to tweak a bit of lube up to there with out breaking the tractor? Even with drilling an access hole to use a long extension tube? I know that's wishful thinking. Thanks all for any insight and especially peace of mind. Bill S.

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Brian

12-17-2001 12:49:39




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 Re: FSM Noisy Clutch During Engage/Disengage in reply to Bill S., 12-16-2001 19:18:22  
Bill,

If the noise has just developed I would split the tractor and check. The bronze bush would have been letting you know it was there from early in the tractor's life.

You have a number of things that would make me split her sooner rather than later.

1. It is a live clutch. These can be difficult to get parts for so it needs checking now before anything gets more damaged. I say this in case what you are hearing is a worn clutch disc or, if the clutch has been over adjusted to compensate for normal wear, the clutch release arms may be fouling.

2.The release bearing would only make a noise when the clutch was being disengaged. If this is failing it will wear the clutch release mechanism and cause major problems.

3. There is also a needle roller bearing between the gearbox input shaft and the PTO input shaft. This also can fail.

Both the pilot bearing and the needle roller can cause the drag on the gear change you mention.

None of the above are a big job as all can be got at through the clutch housing.

There is no way that you can lubricate in here other than with High Melting point Molibdinum Grease (hope that's spelt right) when the tractor is split.

Sorry to be a bit negative but again, if the pilot bearing siezes on the clutch shaft, it is an awful job to get the tractor apart. You would have to take the clutch off the flywheel through a very small gap. Been there, Eaten the pie and bought the "T" shirt!!! ;0)

Hope this helps.

Brian

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Bill S.

12-17-2001 18:21:16




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 Re: Re: FSM Noisy Clutch During Engage/Disengage in reply to Brian, 12-17-2001 12:49:39  
Thanks Brian. Today the noise was gone for the first 15 min. then gradually returned. That needle bearing sounds like another good bet. I ordered the pilot bearing today and confirmed the release bearing to be available from Ford/New Holland. The needle I didn't check about yet as I had not seen your note till too late. It looks as if I can break the tractor with the Ford front end loader still mounted. That was a good discovery. If I must dismantle the clutch assy. do I need all the special jigs, pullers, and centering devices outlined in the manual? Is it wise to do any seals etc. while things are open? If the worst case scenario proves that clutch components are damaged beyond reuse do any of the Ford live clutches interchange? That may be wishful thinking. Thanks for your help.
Bill S.

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Brian

12-18-2001 03:47:30




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 Re: Re: Re: FSM Noisy Clutch During Engage/Disengage in reply to Bill S., 12-17-2001 18:21:16  
Bill,
The clutch will come out as one unit and will not need dismantling unless you find something faulty.

All the tools are handy but it can be done without them if you are careful.The lining up of the plates will be the thing to take most care over. And watch which way the plates come out when (if) you have to take the clutch apart.

No other Ford clutch or clutch parts will fit.

We used to carry repaired units as service items but parts are now very hard to come by over here.

Some thing that may help in the future. Look at the clutch pedal. Where it curves under the footplate, the clutch pedal runs in a thin metal guide. Near the bottom of this guide is a hole through. Insert a bolt or pin in this hole to prevent the clutch pedal going right down. This will save wear on the PTO side of the clutch and leave you with a fully "live" hydraulic system. You will not have to guess where the PTO clutch release starts.

Don't forget the pin when you need to work PTO drive implements. I have driven miles to farms just to remove it.

regards

Brian

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