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Hey Burhead needs some more advice!

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capbuster

09-10-2002 19:27:56




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Burrhead, I got my axle out and drilled out the collar and with a chisel I got that off. I found out that my bearing race was bad and had to order one today, ordered a new bearing too, will be hear tomorrow. I took the other side apart too so I could set the freeplay on the axles and I found oil in that brake to. It wasn't dripping out where that outer seal was. I don't know if you can tell by that or really which seal is leaking. What I need to know is when I took my axle over to my mechanic friends garage today to get the bearing pressed off, he told me that I could have probably pressed off the collar and reused it. What do you think about that, have you ever tried that? Would or could it work? It would sure save some money. I was just wondering, let me know what you think.
Capbuster aka Mark

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Burrhead

09-11-2002 11:38:43




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 Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-10-2002 19:27:56  
If I'm understanding it right you mean the retainer collar. Is it #8 in the attached photo??

If so then no I would'nt use it again. They are made with grooves to slide one way on the shaft and lock down. If you press it off there is'nt enough groove left to keep it locked down for very long.



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capbuster

09-11-2002 20:43:53




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 Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-11-2002 11:38:43  
I was thinking along those lines to. It's a shame you can't, that retainer costs $67.00 here in Kentucky. I took the other axle out today and put in straight up on my work bench, I then shimed out the part that holds the race, and seal with 4 little washers. I snugged it up against the bearing,then filled it up with 10w 40 and it's been in there now for hours and it has not leaked out the bottom. I think I can safely say this outer seal is ok on this axle, what do you think? I'm thinking it is the seal in the rear end housing that's bad. The axle has some groves cut into it by the seal. I'm going to clean it good and put JB weld on it then take some emory cloth and hone it down. I was told that would work. Have you ever tried that? If not what do you use? I can't find those stainless steel shims that go around the axle anywhere. I guess I'm talking your leg off so you take care and I will get back with you tomorrow. Thanks
Capbuster aka Mark

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Burrhead

09-11-2002 21:38:36




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 Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-11-2002 20:43:53  
They call them SS sleeves a "Speedy Ring" around here. I always just call them a wear ring.

Is there a Motion Industries around you. They have the bearings and most times the seals too.

Dixie Bearing has them too. Go around some where there are some sort of industrial supply places. Them Dexta parts look odd but they are everyone on standard SAE measurements.

I never used JB Weld but if you can slick it back up I don't see why not.

If the seal is holding oil it should be good.

I did'nt realize the locks had turned to gold. Before I would pay that I would take a chizel and score the shaft, then drive the lock on with some Loctite just for insurance. It won't go nowhere

The worst that could happen is you would have to take it back down and spend the $67 later.

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capbuster

09-11-2002 22:38:23




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-11-2002 21:38:36  
Thanks Burrhead, I'll let you know how things progress tomorrow.
Capbuster



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Peter, U.K.

09-12-2002 00:03:19




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-11-2002 22:38:23  
The lock collars for the Massey Ferguson 35 will fit the Dexta. There's a big difference in price. I was quoted 59 pounds sterling by my New Holland dealer for one lock collar. I had an old 35 half shaft in the work shop, measured it up and found it identical to the Dexta. Found cost of MF lock collars was 5 pounds sterling. I fitted the Mf collars to the Dexta which now works perfectly.
Peter.

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Burrhead

09-12-2002 09:39:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Peter, U.K., 09-12-2002 00:03:19  
I did'nt know about differential parts but I use MF or Perkins engine and fuel filters when I can't get a Carquest or Walmart.

The MF parts are about 1/2 price to Ford N/H prices.

I needed a crankshaft and Ford wanted $479 plus $225 for bearings kit.

I ended up at Ferguson and bought a new crankshaft with the bearing kit included for $410.



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capbuster

09-12-2002 19:09:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-12-2002 09:39:43  
Hey Peter what year and model Ferguson was that. I will check the dealer here in Lexington. I got one axle done today Burrhead and it pressed back on good. I was going to press off the collar on the other one tomorrow, but I think I'll wait and see what Peter says and then check the Ferguson out to see what there price is. Thanks guys.
Capbuster



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Peter, U.K.

09-13-2002 00:35:48




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-12-2002 19:09:34  
The collars I used were intended for the Massey Ferguson 35. The MF part number is 180 596M1. I got my collars through my local BEPCO dealer at just over five pounds sterling ($3.22) each.
Hope this is of use to you,
Regards,
Peter.



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Burrhead

09-12-2002 22:36:29




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-12-2002 19:09:34  
good luck with it. I aint really cheap I just hate to spend money.



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capbuster

09-13-2002 16:18:00




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-12-2002 22:36:29  
These days and times you got to do what you got to do. I'm like you Burr I aint cheap either but, every time I open my billfold I can hear birds saying cheep cheep. LOLLLOLL Boy I'm funny tonight. I'm in the process of setting the end play on my axle's to .004-.012 like the book says. Do you have to have both axles in the tractor and snuged up or can you do it with one. I've been trying to do it with one and it doesn't seem to want to work. If you know what I'm talking about Burr I do need to here from you. I'm going tomorrow and try to press off the retainer and collar, and bearing all at the same time. I hope this is possible. I will never know until I try. I'll get back on line later on to see if you have answered.
Capbuster

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Burrhead

09-13-2002 18:03:45




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-13-2002 16:18:00  
Naw ye have to lock down one axle and adjust the other, then go back and adjust the one you had locked down

Take a wood wedge and drive it in so as to force either axle outwards. Leave the wedge in and go to the other side and adjust the run out with the shims between the brake plate and diff housing.

When you get one side set just knock the wedge out and set that side last.

The way to check the bearings for tight is::: with both wheels jacked up and the tranny in nuetral, turn either wheel and watch the other side. If the opposite wheel turns the same way as you are turning then the bearing is too tight.

When the opposite wheel turns in the opposite direction of the one you spin the bearings are okay.

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capbuster

09-13-2002 19:40:43




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-13-2002 18:03:45  
Thanks again Burrhead, I'll do that. I thought I might be messin up so that's when I came in here and emailed you. It will be next week before I can get it done. I think if it comes off that axle alright I'm going to put new seals and bearings in that side to. That is if I can talk the old woman out of some money. Thanks again and I'll let you know something Monday.
Capbuster



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Burrhead

09-13-2002 21:00:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to capbuster, 09-13-2002 19:40:43  
Alright just keep us up to date. There's some of us that honestly do enjoy tinkering on the Dextas and S-Dextas.

I use my S-D for ever thing from finish mowing the yard to running a NH 845 round baler.

The co farm has larger tractors but I prefer to use the S-D. Anybody can run new tractors but I just like the feel of keeping it simple. I need to find me an M Farmall to re-do but folks with them around here think they got a gold mine.

I still drive my 91 F350 with 400,000 miles on it. So far a valve job, alternator, and water pump and crankshaft bearings are all this one has had. It's still original clutch and drive line never had to replace even a u-joint.

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capbuster

09-13-2002 16:17:55




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Hey Burhead needs some more advice! in reply to Burrhead, 09-12-2002 22:36:29  
These days and times you got to do what you got to do. I'm like you Burr I aint cheap either but, every time I open my billfold I can hear birds saying cheep cheep. LOLLLOLL Boy I'm funny tonight. I'm in the process of setting the end play on my axle's to .004-.012 like the book says. Do you have to have both axles in the tractor and snuged up or can you do it with one. I've been trying to do it with one and it doesn't seem to want to work. If you know what I'm talking about Burr I do need to here from you. I'm going tomorrow and try to press off the retainer and collar, and bearing all at the same time. I hope this is possible. I will never know until I try. I'll get back on line later on to see if you have answered.
Capbuster

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