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Replacing Timing cover seal

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Damon

02-17-2003 15:01:00




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Dear all,
my dexta is leaking oil from the front of the engine, behind the balancer pulley. From reading the I and T manual I assume this is a leaky timing cover seal. The seal is only worth about 11 to 12 dollars Australian but according to the I and T manual you have to remove the front axle. Is there a short-cut method to replacing this seal so I don't have to pull the front axle off? It seems really annoying to have to spend a day's work just to replace a relatively inexpensive part.

Thanks in advance,
Damon

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Paul

02-17-2003 22:34:20




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 Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Damon , 02-17-2003 15:01:00  
Damon, Try tightening all the bolts in that area, including the sump bolts. I thought I needed to replace the front crank seal until I put a spanner on the bolts & found many a loose one. Worth trying before you go to all the trouble you mentioned. Just a thought. Hope it works out for you.



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Damon

02-18-2003 00:01:16




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 Re: Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Paul, 02-17-2003 22:34:20  
Paul,
I will give it a try this weekend, I hope that is all that is needed.

Thanks,
Damon



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Burrhead

02-17-2003 19:40:47




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 Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Damon , 02-17-2003 15:01:00  
Damon I don't know any short cut and by breaking it apart you should be able to install the seal in 2 or at most 3 hrs if you stay busy and don't lollygag around.

While it's apart is a good time to adjust the radius rod caps or any steering that needs tightened up.



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Capp

02-17-2003 20:15:51




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 Re: Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Burrhead, 02-17-2003 19:40:47  
You might need a new timing cover gasket to or you might just use some red silicone on it. What do you think Dr. Burr? Oh, I'm glad to see you back on the boards Burrhead.
Capp



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Burrhead

02-18-2003 17:44:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Capp, 02-17-2003 20:15:51  
Thanks for the welcome back Capp. Did you get any snow this time???

Unless there is some part that uses the gasket as a shim like the steering box does, I never use gaskets anymore. That red silicone works wonderful.

When I go into a diesel dorf pickup or tractor engine, or any engine with a flat oil pan seat or a differential or tranny I always use red silicone with no gaskets.

As long as a feller don't put way to much silicone for the crack there is'nt a problem.

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Bill S.

02-23-2003 07:19:41




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Burrhead, 02-18-2003 17:44:41  
I replaced that seal on my FSM. It has the spicer joint drive shaft for the loader which was rusted on the splines. In spite of that I was only about 2 hours start to finish. Really, it could not have been much more straight forward. I obtained both the seal and the gasket from Ford New Holland for reasonable cost. I would expect to put a gasket back as it's thickness may be vital to the bolts coming from below thru the oil pan. My seal was definitely bad, hard and broken. A helpful reminder for all work is to use never seize compound on the bolts if there is any possibility of rust, you'll thank yourself next time around. That's not vital on bolts entering oily areas but I often use it anyway to helm ease the thread friction for torque delivery. My preference is the moly never seize but any sort is way better than none. Good luck with it.

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Burrhead

03-04-2003 17:57:31




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Replacing Timing cover seal in reply to Bill S., 02-23-2003 07:19:41  
That's a big 10-4 on the never seize.



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