317 John Deere

I would like to recondition the tractor and have had a hard time finding info or parts on the 317 after surfing the web for some time. After reading some postings it sounds like the Kohler engine in this model was not very reliable. Is this true?

Is the 317 unpopular or just not widely used? I found a lot of 316 and 318 adds and parts but few 317. Any history on the 317 would be helpful.

Also, what is the value of a tractor like this?

The 17hp Kohler initially was oiled by a slinger that sprayed oil at the rods. This was inadequate at best, and worse if the tractor was operated on a side hill and the slinger couldn't reach the oil. This was a proble for any tractor that used the Series I Kohler, as Mark has pointed out, his Cub Cadet suffers the same malady.

Kohler corrected the problem with the Series II by adding a pressurized, filtered system that supplies oil to the rods via galleys, and the new engine was offerred as a repleacement option for 317 owners that had the Series I, but too late for John Deere, the 317 already had a bad reputation. JD come out with the 318 that had an 18hp Onan engine and the 317 was retired from the line.

The 318 and the 317 are nearly identical tractors, the major differences being the 318 has power steering, the 317 does not. THe 317 has dual front hydraulics and a rear PTO, whereas the 318 has a rear hydraulic.

For this reason, the 317 has a belt driven rear tiller, the 318 tiller is hydraulic drive. Each tiller drive method has its advantages, but the belt driven tiller will cost you 2/3 the asking price for a hydraulic tiller.

The 318's power steering is really only a requirement if you want to mount a front end loader (a tractor with a loaded bucket is no fun to steer without it!).

The 318 is touted as one of the best L&G tractors that JD ever developed and the 317 has a bad rep, yet they are basically the same tractor. Go figure! My 317 has the Series II engine and I am as happy to own it as I would a 318.

Generally a 317, due to its rep, will sell for half the price of a 318, especially if it is still powered by the Series I Kohler. However, for those that know what they are looking at, a refurbished 317 with a Series II will sell for around $2800, while a refurbished 318 sells for $3400, the $600 difference being paid for the power steering, and I suppose some added value for the Onan engine.

Depending on what engine you have, and how much you had to pay for it plus what it costs to bring it up to snuff, I believe you will be satisfied with your purchase. Don't look back, you have a good tractor! Gadget

I paid $850 for the tractor. After looking around on the net at some other 317 for sale it looks like I got a good deal. The tractor is mechnically sound just needs some cleaning up and replace a few parts. I ordered a maintance manual and parts catalog for it. I need to replace a broken tail light, buy two side engine covers that are missing, replace the seat, and a new paint job. After that it should be worth twice what I paid. It's my first JD so I'll likely keep for a while.

However, the deck is in really bad shape. Any advice on getting another deck for it?

Also, I'm looking for "MR. Gadget" if you would be so kind as to write me.

The engine is a Kohler Serial 24167 and the model is KT17QS, or vica versa. Would anyone happen to know if this is a Series II without anymore numbers available?

The asking price is $2800.00 and being new to JD, I have my concerns. Turn it off at idle and got a hugh backfire twice. Bottom looks fairly leak free and he claims it has a new PTO Clutch. Hobbs meter is 1000 hours and counting.

Any and all comments, greatly appreciated. I think I'm going to like this John Deere stuff. :+)

Tom, my other machine is a Boeing...

boeingdriver@earthlink.net

Also, I'm looking for "MR. Gadget" if you would be so kind as to write me.

The engine is a Kohler Serial 24167 and the model is KT17QS, or vica versa. Would anyone happen to know if this is a Series II without anymore numbers available?

The asking price is $2800.00 and being new to JD, I have my concerns. Turn it off at idle and got a hugh backfire twice. Bottom looks fairly leak free and he claims it has a new PTO Clutch. Hobbs meter is 1000 hours and counting.

Any and all comments, greatly appreciated. I think I'm going to like this John Deere stuff. :+)

Tom, my other machine is a Boeing...

boeingdriver@earthlink.net

Don't always have access to the web while on the road, so any e-mail carbon copies would be appreciated.

Tom
boeingdriver@earthlink.net

He disagreed with the info regarding Series II starting at 24300. I got that info from message #3527 on /clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/johndeeregarde----- --
I have to add that I trust my local guy implicitly because he has been buying used JD and refurbing them for many, many years. That includes totally rebuilding the engines. If anybody knows whats inside one, he does.

Do you have an oil filter on you tractor? If you do, you most likely have a Series II engine with a pressurized oil system. Sorry if I having confused or mislead you.

I'm really curious to hear your response now. Gadget

Only filter is on the hydro unit underneath. Any thing to watch for there?

After mowing last night, I parked the tractor in the garage and found about a teaspoon of oil on the ground. Looks like it is leaking around the front clutch that drives the mower deck. Is there any easy fix for that or will I need to take the clutch off and replace the seal.

Also, on the carb there are 3 adjuster screws, a big one on the side, a smaller one which I can tell works the throttle for idle, and a large one on top. What is the proper sequence to get the fast idle and slow idle set properly using those screws? I was having trouble with the fast idle this afternoon and had to run with a slight choke to keep the engine running smooth.

Thanks

It sounds like you have a stage I motor. According to the Kohler manual the serial break was 13118212. The earlier motors had a pressurized spray system that pumped oil through galleys, the cam and back to the crankcase but they used the return spray to oil the rod bearings...no oil passages into the crank journals and no real oil slinger.

The carb problem sounds like your hi-speed mixture is too lean. Thats the big one on top of the carb. The other big screw (on the side) is the low speed or idle mixture.

The oil that you are noticing is probably coming from the from main seal or the crankcase housing behind the pto clutch. That clutch is really just mounted on the outside of the motor.

I have a operators manual and a shop manual that I got with my 317 and would be happy to fax any info you need.