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BS Engine Repair Question

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LarryG

05-13-2002 04:25:12




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Well, my replacement connecting rod for Dad's 12.5 hp lawn tractor arrived from Sears quicker than they predicted. I didn't buy the 0.020" undersize replacement because I was not planning on grinding the crankshaft bearing down. When I installed it, the wristpin fit like a glove, but when I torqued up the bolts on the crankshaft end, I can't turn the engine by hand. Does B&S ship replacement connecting rods to fit out of the box, or do they have to be machined to fit individually?

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LarryG

05-14-2002 04:36:11




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 Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-13-2002 04:25:12  
Thanks for all the input. I guess I'm about to remove the crankshaft from the engine so I can get at the bearing surface. What's a gear puller large enough to pull that flywheel going to set me back? I've already invested in a smaller torque wrench and piston ring compressor. And is Sears the place to go? I could probably get a replacement engine for around $500, but then, I wouldn't be having all this fun, my new truck wouldn't be sitting outside 'cause the garden tractor is spread all over my side of the garage, and my wife wouldn't be complaining about what I smell like when I finally get out of the garage at night. (This day job of mine is interfering with a lot of fun things I could be doing.)

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Van Cottom

02-10-2004 12:15:26




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 Re: Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-14-2002 04:36:11  
You can put a small pry bar under the flywheel and lift up, gentally, then whack the side of the flywheel with a dead-blow hammer and it will nearly jump off into your hands. This of course after you take the nut / rachet assembly off! I saw my professional, certified B&S dealer do this many years ago, and it's always worked for me.



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Ron

05-13-2002 17:53:01




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 Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-13-2002 04:25:12  
Don't use sand paper to clean the crank journals..... .!! Use Crocus cloth--wrapped around the journal---oil well, then wrap ( coil ) a cotton cloths-line around the Crocus cloth 'till you can't wrap another coil around it.... Spin the Crocus cloth with the cotton line, and keep it oiled..... The journal will come out clean and Polished...!! It will not remove enough crank material to measure, either...

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Fish

05-13-2002 05:47:53




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 Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-13-2002 04:25:12  
Why did you replace the rod? What are the engines
model numbers as well as the part number of the
rod they sent you? If you replaced the old rod
because it seized, you may have not cleaned the crank up enough before putting on the new one.
Let us know. Fish



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LarryG

05-13-2002 07:47:14




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 Re: Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to Fish, 05-13-2002 05:47:53  
They sent me what I asked for, but I admit I had to guess at the engine model and part number. Somebody must have done maintenance on this engine and replaced the shroud because there were no markings on this engine anywhere B&S said there should be. I replaced the connecting rod because the previous one broke at the lower bearing, not because it had seized. I have looked at the crankcase and crankshaft, and I do not see any damage from the rod breaking. One thing that was a bit of a mystery - both bearing cap screws were backed half way out and the break was banged up - I think it had slapped around for a while before it broke. I'm wondering if some idiot ran into the same problem I have run into with a tight connection and backed the screws off until it loosened up, then depended on locktite to hold them in place - naw, nobody could be that dumb..... .... I came up with the part number by looking at a lot of B&S exploded diagrams until I found one that looked like it was the correct engine. The rod looked identical when I got it, although I didn't mike the crank or lower end of the old rod, but the wrist pin fit as well as the old one.

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Fish

05-13-2002 09:37:05




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 Re: Re: Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-13-2002 07:47:14  
When the rod seizes on the crank, it usually bends
and loosens the rod bolts, and I can assure you
there is a layer of pasted on aluminum on the
crank surface, which must be taken off with a fine grit sandpaper until the surface looks
perfect. 99% of the time the crank can be
salvaged on these Briggs. Fish



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chain island

05-13-2002 20:12:33




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to Fish, 05-13-2002 09:37:05  
Try nitric acid from the pool store to remove the aluminum from the crank.



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Mark

05-13-2002 05:39:58




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 Re: BS Engine Repair Question in reply to LarryG, 05-13-2002 04:25:12  
It should fit right in with no problems. mesure the old rod and the new rod. Chances are they sent you the wrong one.Good luck: Mark



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