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314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!!

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Jim

05-22-2002 07:28:56




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I just got this back together and started it. It has the same knock it had before. I measured the crank and it was in spec. The rod was worn, so I put a new rod, piston, valves, rebore...etc. Sounds to me like the rod is knocking? The only thing I can think of is I didn't oil the bolts on the rod when I torqued them down. Could that be the problem? If so should I pull the oil pan, take them out, and oil them then retorque? I'm wishing I had spent the extra $70.00 and had the crank turned, because I'm really afraid that is the problem. It was within spec though. I'm confused...lol.

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jim

05-23-2002 15:41:22




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 Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim, 05-22-2002 07:28:56  
No, I sure didn't. Ist rebuild, just went by the John Deere tech manual and they didn't say anything about going all the way around. Rut Row.



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Pete in Ks

05-23-2002 08:33:28




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 Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim, 05-22-2002 07:28:56  
Did you mic the crank all the way around? If you had a rod knock before I can almost garantee it is out of round and will start a knock with a new rod.



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Bob

05-22-2002 10:40:37




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 Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim, 05-22-2002 07:28:56  
You may have a spark knock from early ign. timing. This is a breaker point ign., isn't it?
If it indeed is a breaker point ignition, varying the point gap is how you set the timing. You need to use a timing light, and set the timing so the "S" mark on the flywheel lines up with the timing mark on the closure plate of the engine next to the flywheel. The other problem, since apparently you did not rebore the engine, could be a worn cylinder. They wear more on the exhaust valve side of the block, and if the bore is worn out of round, you'll get piston slap. As far as the rod torque, proper torquing is extremely important, but almost certainly your failing to oil the bolts is not what's causing your problem at this time. I would think a small error in the torque is more likely to show up later, as the failure (read destruction) of the rod and/or rod bolts. I would not think that is causing you knock now. If correcting the ign. timing does not help you might want to check the rod clearance with plasti-guage.

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Jim

05-22-2002 13:40:40




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 Re: Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Bob, 05-22-2002 10:40:37  
Yes it is breaker point. I just set the points without using a timing light. I will set with timing light and see if there is an improvement. I did have the cylinder bored. I started this whole rebuild because I thought it had piston slap, or a bad rod. Compression was way down too. Thanks.



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Jim S.

05-22-2002 08:07:09




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 Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim, 05-22-2002 07:28:56  
Sure it's not a cam knock? They can fool ya, sound a lot like a knocking rod. Check the end play while yer in there. I have had them where they end play was in the outer range, but still in spec, and they still knocked. Try for mid-range of spec.

IMHO, there is NO reason to turn an in-spec crank that does not have a scored journal. Especially at $70! My machine shop charges $25.



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Jim

05-22-2002 13:44:37




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 Re: Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim S., 05-22-2002 08:07:09  
I didn't check the end play on the cam. Just the crank. Not sure how you get up there to it? Sounds like you got a reasonable machine shop. All of these shops around here really gouge ya. Thanks.



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luas

05-22-2002 07:47:09




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 Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to Jim, 05-22-2002 07:28:56  

get some plastiguage and check the rod clearance. what did your crank measure? was the dipper on your new rod the same length as the old one??lucas



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Jim

05-22-2002 13:51:29




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 Re: Re: 314 rebuild....didn't have crank turned!!!!! in reply to luas, 05-22-2002 07:47:09  
I dont remember exactly what it measured. It wasn't even close to being out of spec though. I didn't measure the dipper just eyeballed the two and they seemed the same. Do some of them need to be filed down or something? I'll try the plastigauge. Do I need to take the rod out for that or can I just put it in between the rod cap and crank? Do you have the spec for the plastigauge? Thanks.



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