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Broken Connecting Rod

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Brian

05-31-2002 05:23:25




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I have a 1965 John Deere 110 with an 8 hp Kohler. The original connecting rod broke so I tore down the engine and replaced it. I have now broken the rod two more times. The tractor runs great for about a year then seams to seize up a litte just before the rod breaks. The rod breaks in the middle every time. Does anyone have any ideas on what is causing the connecting rod to break?




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kjm

06-13-2002 09:29:13




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 Re: Broken Connecting Rod in reply to Brian, 05-31-2002 05:23:25  
Brian, I heard this cure last week,rebuild it start, it let it idle till it runs 1 full tank of gas out. Old boy said it would run fine after that ,he said,that the rods are not round out of the box. mite work mite not kjm



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Dave G

06-01-2002 05:20:11




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 Re: Broken Connecting Rod in reply to Brian, 05-31-2002 05:23:25  
When you overhaul make sure you do the following:
1) grind the crank .010 and get a new 0.010 under rod. If the crank is bad it will ruin the rod.
2) make sure hole in rod end cap faces the crankshaft.

When you run it make sure you keep oil in it. These engines don't have oil pumps so don't go long distances on a side hill either.

They are good engines though. Don't give up.



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Pete in Ks

05-31-2002 09:43:03




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 Re: Broken Connecting Rod in reply to Brian, 05-31-2002 05:23:25  
I have a neighbor who has a Cub 149 that does something similar. In it's case the rings wear and it starts smoking. Lasts about a year on a rebuild and does it again. The fact that you get a years use is what makes this hard to diagnose. With what you describe it does. I am betting it is seizing up on the crank then breaking rod. The reasons it seizes is either lack of oil or too tight on crank. Lack of oil is caused by low oil level, oil hole in rod not toward cam, or Heat. Heat is caused by blocked cooling fins, Carb not set correctly, or excessive load. You should have your engine block and crank checked at a local machine shop that does small engines. If need be have them bore the block and grind the crank. I usually have the valves done at the same time. I will have the block Magnifluxed to check for cracks if I believe engine has been extremely hot.

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